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It's New Year's Eve! Learn to Tie a Proper Bow Tie!

Hello all! I hope you've all made designated driver/taxi plans for the evening! I very well may be staying in tonight, as I believe the police will be out in droves and a cab would be rather costly with all the stops I would have to make. If any of you are heading out this evening, I'm sure some will be attending the type of event where a bow tie should be part of one's ensemble. Pre-tied bow ties can be tempting for those who have not yet learned how to tie one, but a real, hand-tied bow tie is oh so much better!

Why not take this opportunity to learn to tie a proper bow tie? Even if you don't use your new-found knowledge this evening, the skill will come in handy someday when you don't have to wear an obviously fake pleated satin piece of crap. Bow ties are reaching a resurgence, and thanks to Ralph Lauren, Andre 3000, Jay-Z, Band of Outsiders and Brooks Brothers, they are epitomizing every type of cool from old-school prepster to rapper chic. You need at least one.
Today, compliments of GQ Rules, Band of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg shows you the way to tie a bow tie correctly. The video has great angles and is one of the best I've found. Check it out. You still have plenty of time to practice before this evening.
Cheers, and Happy New Year!
-Paul

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Making Your Skin Crawl

Hello again; pardon the sebatical! The week has been quite busy. I hope everyone had a very merry Christmas. Today we're talking belts. I used to think that a man needed only one belt in his wardrobe: a reversible belt, brown on one side and black on the other, with a swiveling buckle allowing for an easy change between colors. Then, my shoe wardrobe began to expand, and I realized that different shades of brown required different belts. There is no way for one to appear as if he knows how to dress when his chocolate-brown wingtips are paired with with reversible belt "stock" chili-brown.

So I began to collect belts in varying shades of brown, keeping my reversible belt for use with black shoes, which I wear much less often. After amassing sufficient brown shoes and belts to match, I began acquiring more black shoes, and realized that a chintzy, reversible belt made my good shoes look cheap, and that one high quality black belt was required to complete my collection. I chose the belt in the bottom photo, a sleek looking alligator number from Ralph Lauren, with a silver buckle (if you don't wear gold jewelry, buy only silver buckles: NO gold). This did it. Not only does the belt look great, but simply having it inspires me to wear black shoes more often.

All of that being said (and thank you for bearing with my brief history of accessory consumption), I wanted to offer a suggestion for finding a classy belt. Exotic skins, such as lizard (top picture) or the aforementioned alligator are a little bit dressier than the smooth calf-leather belts that are more commonly seen. They can, however, be dressed down and worn with jeans. I like the exotic skins because they set the wearer apart a little bit more from the rest of the crowd. Everyone and their proverbial brothers sport belts without any character. Grab some attention from those who want to give it by having an accessory that pops!

Do remember, though, that it is very important that one invests in good belts. Cheap belts may be initially easy on the wallet, but the corrected grain leather (if leather at all: a lot are "pleather") will show wear very quickly and will crack and crease. The belt will eventually require disposal, but before it's thrown away the inferior belt will diminish the overall appearance of a polished outfit, cheapening the look of every other component.

One doesn't need to spend a fortune. Genuine alligator belts cost several hundred dollars, but high-quality embossed leather belts can be found for well under $100. One of the belts pictured above is the genuine article, and the other is embossed leather. Can you tell which is which? My lips are sealed, but the one that sells for well under $100 is still of exceptional quality. Just resist the temptation to spend ten bucks on a dress belt. You're all worth more than that.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul



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Fashionably Functional

Merry Christmas, guys. I hope the holiday shopping is not breaking you this year. With a freshly printed bonus check freshly deposited in my bank account, I am finally prepared to nab a thing or two. Today's post, however, is not a holiday gift guide. In fact, it has nothing to do with shopping at all (unless you're still shopping around for a proper tailor). Today is about little details that work. Function is our topic today, so here goes!

I am a huge proponent of the importance of function when it comes to my clothing. I like things to work the way that they appear they're supposed to. I wear a pocket square or pocket linen in the breast pocket of my sport coats because that's what the pockets are there for; they are designed to be functional and to display either a somber or brightly colored kerchief. I don't like snaps that are cleverly designed to look like buttons (my toddler's closet is riddled with clothing sporting this "feature"), and I really don't like buttons that are just sewn onto the sleeves of my jackets, serving no purpose other than sheer ornamentation.

I have some very nice jackets that have ornamental sleeve buttons, and for the price of some of them, one would think that all of the little details should be functional. This can be fixed, however, and I am in the process of making the correction to all of my jackets that didn't come with functional button holes (or "surgeon cuffs," as they're properly called) to start with. When you're looking for a tailor, find one who can, either by hand or by machine, add functional button holes to your jacket cuffs. I have had this done to about five or six of my blazers or sport coats (see photo), and I just love knowing that they work correctly.

Being a bit of a dandy, I like to leave one or two of my sleeve buttons unfastened (some purists may call this an affectation or a grotesque display of vanity, but I don't like those people anyway), allowing the sleeve to open a little bit more freely, and having the surgeon cuff procedure performed on my jackets gives me the freedom to do so. If it ain't your thing, fine. I don't think that a well made jacket looks like a poorly made jacket if the cuff buttons aren't functional, and conversely, crappy Malaysian-made wares that do have functional button holes don't necessarily look to be well made. Having surgeon cuffs certainly doesn't guarantee quality. But I like mine to work so I'm working it out.

A caution if you plan on having this done, however; make sure you will require no adjustment to the length of your sleeves prior to having the button holes made, or have the length adjusted at the same time. Once the new button holes are made, your length cannot be changed without great expense, if it can be changed at all.
I hope all of you have a wonderful Christmas. Someone pass the eggnog!

Cheers,
-Paul

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Just in Time for Christmas: The official "Iron Man 2" Trailer!


Here it is, just released, courtesy of marvel.com... The official trailer for Iron Man 2. The movie releases May 7, 2010. Dig Mickey Rourke as Whiplash... this flick appears to be bad ass. I can't wait. Oh, and nice suit on Robert Downey Jr. in the opening court room scene...

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The "Everyday" Watch

In Esquire magazine's Novemeber issue, attention was given to watches; specifically on building one's watch wardrobe to include a weekend watch, an everyday watch, and then the more exotic "Third" and "Fourth" watches. To focus on the majority of us who want maximum versatility, I wanted to emphasize today the importance of the "Everyday Watch," which should work well with casual wear as well as a two-piece suit and well-shined shoes.

The everyday watch should be professional and sensible, but at the same time, need not be a slim and uncomplicated dressy number. The everday watch should do more than tell you just the hour and the minute: functionality is very important here, so select a watch with one or more complications. To simplify the definition, complications are any features on the dial of a watch that do something other than tell the time. The most common complication is a date window, allowing one to reference the date as well as the time. Sometimes watches display a day of the week as well, which would serve as yet another complication.

Chronographs (stopwatch capabilites) are a handy feature, allowing us to get slightly indulgent when measuring elapsed time (yes, indulgent: you will at some point clock the time of everything from your coffee break to your convenience store run, no matter how unimportant the data). Automatic chronograph watches can get quite pricey, so this will probably mean searching for a nicer quartz version, but this will also insure paramount accuracy.

For an everyday watch, durability is also key. The amount of wear the watch receives may lend itself better to a metal band rather that leather; leather may wear like iron but can over the days and weeks and months and years get a little... funky. I'm sure you know what I mean.

The last (and possibly the most important) feature one should require for his everyday watch is an analog readout. We're looking for a professional watch that gives your credibility at the office here, so save the digital watch for the weekend. I repeat; "Your everyday watch should absolutely not be digital".

My everyday watch is shown above, and while I used to cycle through a multitude of watches throughout the week, this quartz chronograph from Swiss manufacturer Ebel has become my old trusty and works with about anything I could wear, short of a tuxedo. It measures elapsed hours, minutes, seconds, and get this... tenths of a second... the perfect feature to allow exceptional indulgence when clocking my coffee breaks.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Ralph Lauren at GILT

Here is a Paul Walters on Style Public Service Announcement: Through midnight tomorrow Ralph Lauren footwear, as well as Purple Label garments and ties, are available heavily discounted at Gilt Group, an online members-only retailer who specializes in exceptionally high-end products at up to 70% off. If you're not a member, that's ok. Click the link below for an exclusive invitation.
http://www.giltman.com/invite/paulwaltersabc
Cheers!
-Paul

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Winter Weather Shoe Solutions

So here's the problem: Winter is approaching fast, and is sure to bring with it gnarly sidewalk and street conditions. Icy, possibly snowy, and plenty of slushy wet streets are in our future. This can be particularly dangerous for folks who appreciate the aesthetics of proper dress shoes, which when equipped with leather soles are not the best at providing traction on slick walkways. Ugly, thick rubber soles detract from the appearance of quality in a dress shoe, and are usually found on more casual shoes or cheaper dress shoes.

Today, readers, I offer a solution.

There are high-quality shoe makers who make shoes with lug-soled rubber that sits atop a leather sole, still maintaining a slim silhouette when your shoes are viewed from the top or side. Two examples are shown here; a chocolate brown wingtip by Ralph Lauren, and a black oxford by Allen Edmonds. Each of these maintains a classy, high-end appearance while giving the wearer a weapon against the hazards of adverse weather conditions. Each of these shoes is still constructed with a Goodyear Welt, rather than having a gaudy and clunky rubber sole glued to the bottom of an inferior shoe. The Allen Edmonds are shown at the top of the post and the Ralph Laurens are shown below, both from the top, and then the bottom allowing a view of the silhouette and then the secret weapon. Go out and snag yourself a pair!

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul







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Winter Staple: The Flannel Suit

'Tis the season to be jolly... and freakin' cold! The time of year is here where we're breaking out scarves, gloves, hats and topcoats to stave off the biting-cold temperatures. And good for us, lovers of style, that many of these items make great accessories. But what about the days when it's cold but not frigid; when there isn't any frost on your car windows in the morning but your breath still condenses in front of you? When gloves would be unnecessary and scarves cumbersome? At times like these one can stay warm, and remain comfortable throughout the day with the right choice of a suit.

The flannel suit (shown here with a lovely chalk-stripe pattern) is precisely the right thing to wear. Now, don't get me wrong... it works great with scarves and gloves and topcoats, but can stand alone as the perfect, uncomplicated cold weather barrier. The fabric alone shows that one knows how to dress for winter, and the character of the cloth's weight is both attractive and comforting.

Flannel suits work best in charcoals and grays. The color is complimentary to the texture of the material as well as the cool of the season in which we wear them. I think they work especially well with a crisp white shirt and pocket square (if wearing a pocket square). Often times a tonal gray tie that compliments the suit material is worn as well. A wool or rougher texture tie also shows that one knows how to dress for the colder weather, and emphasizes the texture of the suit (see photo 2, compliments of TheSartorialist).

The nice thing about charcoals and grays is that a wide array of shoes can be worn with them as well, from black to brown and from smooth calf to reverse calf (suede). Note also in TheSartorialist's photo the pairing of a suede chukka boot with the flannel suit. Again, because the texture of suede is complimentary to that of the flannel, this pairing works splendidly.

If a new cold weather suit is on the horizon for you, try one in flannel. It will wear like iron, last for years to come, and always be the perfect choice for colder seasons.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Required Listening: Hold On, by Tom Waits

Regular readers know of my love for the music of Tom Waits, and I felt that another of his songs was due for viewers of this site. 1999's Hold On From the album "Mule Variations" brought Tom Waits to a broader listener base, as the song was not quite as quirky and industrially experimental sounding as much of Waits's other work.

His voice is still somewhat gravelly, the video still somewhat avant garde, but the song is mellow and very listenable; the imagery conjured by the lyrics very iconic, and the song is very good. Simple and straight-forward. Enjoy.

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The Plaidness Madness

Hello again all. I hope the Thanksgiving holiday was wonderful for all of you. The ensuing holiday chaos coupled with my charge of leading sales training seminars last month made my writings sparse, and I offer my most humble apology. I am now trying to get back into regular postings, so thank you for bearing with me. I figured I would start off December with the mention of a look that I've seen quite a lot this season, and after trying it out, I think the look works great!

Dress up the plaid shirt. With a suit or a nice blazer or sport coat, the right plaid shirt and tie combo is great for injecting color into an ensemble. With a suit, basic navy, black, or gray works best. Since the pattern in the shirt is pretty bold, one should abstain from a patterned suit, be it stripes or checks, regardless of pattern scale. You don't want to look like an optical illusion. With a sport coat, a faint pattern works, but the tie and the pants should be solid to balance out the look and avoid a case of ocular malaise... unless you want to look like a patchwork quilt.

When the pants and jacket are solid one can sport a patterned tie, but again, the busy nature of plaid requires an ode to minimalism. Bold stripes or a repeating logo should be the extent of the pattern. Stick with a dark tie and pick up one of the colors from the shirt, as I've done with navy in the pictured examples (click for large images). Have some fun with it though. The look works, so make it work for you.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Reconsider the Navy Blazer, Part 2

Not too long ago I posted an article about bringing back the navy blazer, a staple of yesteryear, who's resurgence as of late has been relatively minimal. Ralph Lauren's gotten it right, and so have a few other makers, but the versatility of a navy blazer reigns supreme in my book, especially when cut and fitted properly as mentioned before (and shown here). I would encourage my readers to read my previous post regarding the navy blazer. A link is provided here for your convenience http://tinyurl.com/navyblazer, tying the former post to this one.

My reason for bringing the blazer up again today involves something mentioned in the previous article: the buttons. I mentioned trading out the brass or gold buttons that typify a navy blazer with something different. At the time of the last article I had not found something that caused "my heart to burn within me", but now, I believe I have.
One of the sources I previously mentioned for finding buttons was the Goodwill Store, which is precisely the source of my new accouterments (see photo 2).

These are real silver to boot. The jacket they were formerly attached to was ugly and ill-fitting, but look on eBay for silver blazer buttons and tell me that $4.99 was a bad price to pay for the buttons alone, even if I had to scrap the jacket (I actually ripped the buttons off and then re-donated the jacket).
Anyhoo... I thought an after photo would benefit the before, so here it is (photo 1). If you haven't found your blazer (or your buttons) yet, keep looking. They await your discovery.
Cheers!
-Paul

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Required Listening: Regarding Stacks, by Bon Iver


This could very possibly be my most favorite song of all time. When I need to feel calm, I put this on; it is probably the most soothing song I've ever heard. Now, after learning how to play it, breaking out the guitar and playing this song is like a drug that settles my nerves and eases my mind.

There is no official video for this song, so here is a fan-made photo montage set to the album version of the song. Take some time out from your day and give this a listen. If you have some good headphones, use them. If you enjoy some good pot every once in a while (you know... on occasion, when you have a great song to listen to or you want to play "hip" parent to your teenage kids or you're having a party... whatever), smoke some. Just promise me that the first time you hear this song, it's not being played simply as "background music". Devote some time to it and let it soothe your soul.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
-DISCLAIMER: The use of marijuana is not necessarily endorsed by Paul Walters on Style, as marijuana is illegal for some reason or another and therefore its use cannot be officially condoned by this website or its author.-

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A Penny for Your Thoughts...

Hello again! Today's piece (as an armchair journalist or columnist or whatever I am, I figure I can get away with calling my writings "pieces") concerns yet another wardrobe staple: the versatile penny loafer. Penny loafers as we know them today are an American evolution of the Norwegian leisure slippers of decades past. A brief history may not be neccessary, but I'm going to provide a short lesson regardless. Here we go...
Moccasin style leisure slippers were a popular production in Norway in the 1930's.
The Norwegians began exporting their unique shoes to the rest of Europe where they were adopted by visiting Americans and then introduced to the states by the American Esquire magazine.

In 1934, G.H. Bass (then a boot maker in Wilton, Maine) started making loafers marketed as "Weejuns" (a play on "Norwegians"). Bass made popular a strip of leather across the saddle with a diamond cut-out. Initially only worn in the summer at home, the shoe grew in popularity in America to become a significant part of men's casual shoe wardrobe. The loafers became more of a mainstay of the American wardrobe than they ever were in Europe.

Eventually American ingenuity inspired prep. school students to make use of the diamond shaped cutout atop the shoe. Aside from making a fashion statement, a dime placed in the cutout also assured that the price of a phone call was always at the wearers... er... fingertips (well, close enough). As the price of phone calls went up, pennies replaced dimes to maintain the fashion-statement while shelling out less coin, and eventually, the practice was abandoned altogether. The shoes, however, were not (nor was the term "penny loafer," a description which is still common today).

The penny loafer has remained a versatile shoe that can be dressed up or down, looking equally at home with a sport coat or blazer, white oxford-cloth-button-down, and dress trousers (Miles Davis became known for this look), or a white tee with jeans (James Dean invented this look, but in photo 2, borrows Davis's aforementioned ensemble). The shoes can be worn sockless in the summer and with socks in the cooler seasons. I'd say pair them with anything in between athletic wear and a suit on the formality spectrum.

My loafers (pictured in photo 1) are made by Allen Edmonds, a brand who's consistant quality and American provenance I adore, but many makers produce the penny loafer. G.H. Bass still makes their Weejuns in several price-ranges with variations on some of the more minor details, and while my Allen Edmonds are not an inexpensive pair of shoes, French shoemaker J.M. Weston's basic penny loafers start at about twice their price.
All of these options look very similar. All of them are just as versatile, and all of you can afford a pair.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Tom Ford Makes Movies


This just in... Tom Ford, who shocked many purists when he was selected to dress James Bond in Quantum of Solace, is now again making waves on the silver screen... except this time, the movie is his own. A Single Man (based off of Christopher Isherwood's 1964 novel), starring Colin Firth and Julianne Moore comes out soon, and features Tom Ford's debut as a director and at penning a screenplay. Firth has already won a best actor award for his role in the film at the Venice Film Festival, and Oscar buzz abounds for both he and Julianne Moore.

Whether or not the clothes featured in the film will be designed by Ford (who was the former creative director of Gucci) I don't know yet, but the movie has been called visually dazzling, and a stunning and beautiful film debut by Tom Ford. The movie appears to be set in the late 50's or early 60's (1962 to be exact... the video provides a date). Costuming should rival Mad Men in the way of period wardrobing, surely giving Tom Ford a chance to compete with Brooks Brother's new Mad Men special edition suit. I'm looking forward to seeing it, as $10 for a movie ticket will probably be the only thing with Tom Ford's name on it that I'll ever be able to afford. Check it out in the video trailer.

Cheers,
Paul

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Simple, but Ballsy

Hello again!
Sorry; it has been a few days since my last post. Life has been busy. What can I say? My nine-week-old daughter got some shots and has been depressingly puny for the better part of the week, and as our doctor protests mine and my wife's strong stance against unnecessary vaccinations, there are still a few that must be administered, even under our own admission. Anyhoo...

Today we will again discuss the pocket square. I am a big pocket square advocate and fan, and I have many brightly colored silk pocket squares that I love to wear to amp up an outfit. Lately however, possibly because of the Mad Men influence, I have been favoring the snow-white cotton or linen square, pressed in a crisp TV fold, gently peaking out from above my pocket. The James Bond fold, where 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch of square politely asserts its presence, breaking the monotony of an otherwise conservative (eh... maybe not so conservative) ensemble.

I have, however, started to wonder what is wrong with me, the proverbial semi-dandy, whose collection of vibrant pocket squares has begun to virtually gather dust. I decided something must be done, and a happy medium had to be reached. Enter the patterned cotton handkerchief. Simple in its medium of construction, not unlike the plain white handkerchief that has become a staple, but slightly ballsy, displaying a tasteful pattern on its empty canvas.

Photo 1 shows a couple of examples, designed by David Chu of Nautica notoriety, one with a plaid pattern and one with a tasteful stripe. Pairing one of these squares with one's outfit pays an homage to minimalism, while at the same time projecting flair and panache. In photo 2, the pocket square echoes colors in the shirt with the lighter blues, and also the darker navy in the crest on the rep tie, brilliantly tying the components together. The plaid pattern also flirts with the sport coat's windowpane.

This example is not a limitation. My good friend David Watkins of Astor & Black custom clothiers recently wore a pocket square cut from the same fabric of one of his custom shirts, in a white undercolor with brown micro-check, paired with a brown tie. Combinations obviously abound, and pairings can include jacket pattern, shirt, tie... you get the idea.

The nice thing about these squares? Cheap. A box of 3 can typically run you around $20 at sources such as Brooks Brothers or department stores. Or, check out the outlet stores. A box of 3 patterned squares at TJ Maxx, for example, may be priced as low as $5.99.
Give it a try, and until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Learn to Tie a New Knot: The Pratt

Today I wanted to share with you a clever way to knot your necktie. This knot gives you a nice, symmetrical triangle without the extra heft and bulk of a Windsor knot. It also uses less of the tie length to form the knot, and is better suited for shorter ties than a Windsor. If you'd like to avoid the asymmetrical look of the four-in-hand, give the Pratt knot a try.

It is also known as the Shelby knot and the Pratt-Shelby. The knot was invented by Jerry Pratt, an employee of the US Chamber of Commerce. He had been wearing his tie in the Pratt knot for some twenty years before it became popular after TV personality Don Shelby wore it on air. The New York fashion press then promptly (and mistakenly) attributed the invention of the knot to Shelby.

One of the interesting things about this knot is that tying it begins with the tie "inside out" around one's neck, with the back of the tie showing rather than with the front of the tie showing as is most common. The video provided perfectly depicts how to tie this knot.
Give it a go!
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
Photo 1 shows the finished product.

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Seeing Red, Part 2

Well here they are, in the flesh. These shoes fit true to size, and are very, very comfortable. The insole, shown in photo 2, has the perfect amount of padding and provides an excellent cushioning effect when walking. The suede uppers are soft and supple. All-in-all, a great bang for the buck.

I did shorten the laces, which were quite long, and I still feel the need to take them out and dye them red. The contrast of the white lace on the soft red upper may appeal to some, but I believe I'd like a more uniform appearance.
The red of the shoes is a nice balance between brick red and pink; my one reservation about dying the white leather laces is that they may turn out more pink looking, and therefore upset the balance of the overall shoe color.

The pebbled soles of the shoes, similar in appearance to those of Tod's (despite the absence of a few "pebbles"), provide excellent traction on slightly uneven ground. Granted, these are not an "outdoor" shoe, but the presence of a rubber sole makes wearing the shoes outside safer on the suede.

I look forward to peoples' reactions to these shoes. I'm sure I'll enjoy experimenting with appropriate pairings and discovering ways to wear them. If the red driving shoe is for you, my thoughts are that you will be well pleased with the price, quality, and comfort of this pair.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Seeing Red: The Red Driving Loafer (part 1)

I have a pair of driving mocs in chocolate brown suede. I picked them up from Banana Republic about a year ago. They are constructed rather well, except for the fact that the man-made insole causes one's feet to sweat and slide around in the shoe when going sockless. The problem was solved by purchasing some of the small loafer booties offered by such retailers as Banana Republic or Journey's (although Target sells them for a much lower price in the women's hoisery department, in a large size that accomodates a male foot). The lesson learned here was to buy a loafer with a soft leather insole: no sweating, and consequently, no sliding.

In the Spring of this year, Esquire magazine published their now semi-annual Big Black Book of men's style, and featured a driving loafer in a spread about Italian style (pictured, left). What got my attention about these loafers was their color. Bright red. Nice. After several months of not being able to forget how freakin' cool these looked, I decided I had to get a pair. Suddenly, a new problem presented itself: $$$$$$! The Car Shoe brand driving loafers featured in Esquire go for $420 bucks! Major drat. I looked around and found that Tod's makes a pair as well. $450 bucks! While I may have some $400 shoes in my closet, none of them have a novelty element to them (such as a bright red finish) that would limit my ability to wear them with everything. I'm willing to fork out some coin for versatility, but I can't justify such an expense on a driving moc.


Then, I found these (photo 2). Shoe manufacturer Born makes a red driving loafer (the Lynch) for just a value meal over $100. SOLD! These have an attractive appearance, a leather insole, and are constructed using the Opanka hand-sewn technique, where the upper, the padding, and insole are sewn together in a single process. Sounds good to me.

Now these shoes have been featured on some other blogs; most notably Tweed & Velvet (there is a link in my Blog List), and I haven't received mine yet, so after they arrive I promise a review. One thing that I may do is remove the laces and dye them red for a more uniform appearance... I think the white laces may be slightly distracting from the overall effect. We shall see. It's nice to have the prospect of a comfortable pair of driving shoes. If these work well, I may have to invest in some of the other color options that Born has available. The navy pair looks nice too. Check out the available Lynch models on Born's website, through the link here.
http://tinyurl.com/born-lynch


Until next time,
Cheers!
Paul

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Rethink the Navy Blazer

Classics are hard to faze out. There was a time when a navy blazer was considered a staple for any man's wardrobe; a versatile jacket that could be paired with dress trousers and a tie for a day at the office or a meal at the country club, and worn with jeans and a polo shirt for a more casual approach was just the ticket for bridging the gap between the wearer appearing "dressed up" and "dressed down" (you can dress down an article of clothing. One does not, however, wish to appear dressed down on the whole). When worn with the former, the formality of a navy blazer would fall between that of a suit and a patterned sport coat. When worn with the latter, accessories can formalize or dress the jacket down just about as much as one likes.

When choosing a navy blazer, fit is paramount. The difference between looking like a reject from the masonic lodge and looking like a suave style maven depends on the fit. Slim jacket sleeves, proper shoulder positioning, and a trim-fitting waist are all things that today's navy blazer requires. Buying one as close to one's size as possible and having a good tailor give it a once over is crucial. If one is lucky enough to have a blazer fit properly off the rack, more power to ya, but my slender frame and broad shoulders mean that I almost always have to have the material rolling at the back of the jacket neck corrected. A good tailor is essential to the well-dressed man.

Another consideration that absolutely must be mentioned: the buttons. The traditional blazer buttons are a gold or brass color, and today, this doesn't sit well with many men. Perhaps the gold looks dated, perhaps it looks like one is trying to fake affiliation with an esteemed institution, perhaps you don't have a yacht... in any case, buttons can easily be replaced, and can be found at numerous online sources and fabric shops. Thrift stores, such as Goodwill or Salvation Army, also have blazers that one can buy simply to rob of buttons. 5 bucks for a set of buttons is a deal, even if the jacket they were once attached to doesn't make the cut. For button options, consider silver or pewter, or even mother of pearl (gray mother of pearl looks especially nice). Avoid leather covered buttons, as they can conjure up some of the same dated conceptions of gold or brass.

Photos 1 & 2 depict a navy blazer with proper fit. The buttons on this particular jacket are gold, and will remain so until I find proper replacements. I'm still scouting, and am looking for the absolute perfect set. My heart needs to burn within me. Note the texture of this jacket. The wool used has a soft, even hand, and is not the rougher, courser fabric that you saw on your father's blazer. This is another consideration. To maintain class and distinction, a finer fabric makes the blazer look even more timeless.

Small details are important too. Patch pockets, as shown in photo 1, are "back in style" and are even making appearances on suit jackets from very high-end clothiers. Also, a more narrow lapel, shown in photo 2 (no more than 3 inches at it's widest point), allows for a more modern interpretation of the blazer, after re-emerging from the 1960's style archives (thank you, Mad Men for bringing back the narrow lapel). Too much less than 3 inches is approaching the realm of trendy, so be careful... it may be okay on a suit, but on a navy blazer a somewhat traditional appearance is a good thing.

I hope I've given you some things to consider. Go find a navy blazer and rock it (it works really well with gray flannel trousers now that it's cooler). I will now leave you with a brief synopsis of the inception of the navy blazer, courtesy of www.tomjames.com.

In 1837 the Commander of the frigate H.M.S. Blazer was told that England’s young queen, Victoria, would soon inspect his ship. He took one look at the unsightly condition of his crew’s dress and decreed that they would get new uniforms. He decided on a short jacket with brass Royal Navy buttons.
There is a disagreement as to the color of those first Blazers. In one account, the jackets were striped navy and white; another reports a solid navy serge. In any case, Victoria was so favorably impressed by their attire that she required all the Queen’s sailors to be in similar uniform.

...so there you go.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Layers of Style





















It's Fall now guys. The air is cool and crisp, and our car consoles are pumping out heat instead of air conditioning. One of the most beautiful things about Fall, aside from the lovely changing of the leaves and the smells of cold air and dying foliage (yeah... it smells good), is the ability to add some presence to our outfits by layering. It's colder, and warmth is a good thing, but staying warm in style brings an extra something special to the table.
One of the best ways to keep showing off your well selected tie and perfectly spread shirt collar is the v-neck sweater, or, for those who are slightly more daring, the zipper-neck sweater. The zipper neck allows the freedom to pop the collar as pictured, or to tuck it under for a more subdued statement. Keep in mind that tucking the collar under the jacket could cause a bit of a lump or gap at the back of your jacket collar: if this is a problem, a v-neck may be a better option for you.
Choose a sweater that is thin and delicate, constructed of a fine fabric such as cashmere or merino wool, so that when worn under a sport coat or blazer one doesn't add to much unnecessary bulk to the torso. The idea is to stay warm, but not to look like a climb up Mount Everest is on the daily agenda.
Adding such a layer allows one the opportunity to be even more playful with colors. Note the example pictured, where the navy blue sweater is echoed by the navy blue in the pocket square, and the navy is also complimentary to the blue stripes in the shirt. Textures are somewhat repeated as well; both the sweater and the blazer are cashmere, so that even with bold patterns there is an anchor of consistency by way of fabric selection.
Get creative, have fun, but use the colder months as a chance to experiment with layering.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Required Listening: Xavier Rudd, "Messages"

I first heard this song at the end of an episode of the hit Showtime series Weeds. I initially thought the song to be by Paul Simon: the resemblance between Australian singer/songwriter Xavier Rudd's and Paul Simon's voice is amazing, but after some tedious research (including lurking on Weeds discussion fora), I found the truth. The video shown here is from a live concert where Rudd performed the song for a small audience, sposored by an independent radio station at Northern Kentucky University. The song can be found on Rudd's album, "Food in the Belly". Enjoy.

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The Eyes are the Window... Of Your Face


The title borrows a line from Christopher Walken's "Googlie Eyes Gardener" sketch on SNL... you can find it on Hulu and you'll thank me after watching it.
That aside, today's post is about glasses, and if you're one of the fortunate folks out there with 20/20 vision, I am very happy for you. Contact lenses are a pain in the ass, laser surgery is expensive, and misplacing your glasses or having them fall behind a nightstand sucks.
However, the time for hiding your handicap if you do have less then stellar vision can be over for you, if you opt for a pair of killer frames (you still might drop them behind your nightstand, though).
My recommendation is something thick and noticable. Thin little titanium frames look like you're trying to wear something that people won't see, and this kind of kills the idea of glasses as an accessory all together. Yes! I said accessory! If you're reading this blog regularly, style is important to you, and if you have to have corrected vision, you might as well use your plight as an opportunity to make a statement!
I am absolutely in love with the Lemtosh frames by Moscot (pictured, available at http://www.moscot.com/). The Lemtosh frames have been worn by the likes of Buddy Holly and Truman Capote, and Johnny Depp is regularly seen sporting a pair (pictured). The groovy vintage feel of these frames imparts a sense of nostalgia, but their timeless looks make the Lemtoshes look great today as well. I was going to post a picture of these frames and leave it at that, but then I remembered that GQ Rules produced a video about wearing glasses, and featured none other than Moscot as a site for filming. The Lemtosh frames can be seen in this video on both Kenny Moscot and Adam Rapoport, the video host.
Embrace the idea of wearing frames. Most vision stores have staff who are very helpful at helping one find frames to fit a unique facial structure, so go and try a few on... even if you're just "window" (of the face) shopping.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Wear It On Your Chest

Hello again! Today we return after many posts, to the topic of the pocket square. I've touched on pocket squares before, but have never covered the basics of proper square selection and decorum. The pocket square was for years a forgotten accessory, and I'd still consider it to be one of the most underrated. The breast pocket in a jacket was designed to display one, and having an added dash of color on your chest can do wonders for your overall appearance.

Now, with the advent of the Mad Men era, style is returning to the days of old, and many men are rediscovering the pocket square. Some choose to go for a crisply folded white square (Mad Men style), which always works well for providing contrast to an ensemble, allowing one's collar, cuffs, and square to break the visual monotony of the jacket. When straying from white, however, many men execute the wear of the square poorly. Mistakes are easily made, and I'm hoping that my two cents can help some folks avoid the pitfalls of square wear.

First of all, if you ever end up buying a pocket square and tie that come as a set, do not wear the two together. I would recommend refraining from buying these sets all-together, because in most circumstances, the ties are poorly made. A square/tie set always screams bargain basement to me, and those who know clothing and see you wearing an obvious set will think the same thing. Choose a square that is complimentary to your tie, but different (photo 1). In the pictured example, the colors are the same, but it is obvious that the tie and square are cut from different cloths.

Another method involves choosing a square to compliment a pattern in a suit (photo 2). In this example, the blue and gold pinstripe in the suit are echoed in the pocket square. The green base color of the pocket square is in the family of both the blue and the gold. The tie is complimentary here as well, with blue and orange accent colors.




















Finally, the most daring approach involves pairing your pocket square with neither the tie or jacket, but with a color in the shirt (photo 3). In this case, one needs to look at the pocket square as a sort of second necktie, independent of the actual necktie. You follow? If you didn't have on the tie that you are wearing, would the colors of the pocket square serve in a necktie. In the pictured example, the actual tie compliments the cranberry colors in the jacket, and the pocket square compliments the undercheck of the shirt. Not everone will be comfortable with this type of pairing, but when you are able to put an outfit together in this manner it shows that you are looking at dressing as an artform, and not simply as a means of covering your rear end.

This post could go on and on; this is a simplified explanation of wearing the pocket square, but I am hoping that it's just enough to get you thinking and to jump-start the creativity of the man and his wardrobe. Try it out, take some risks, and be creative!

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Required Listening: Tom Waits, "Way Down in the Hole"

Very interesting stylistic choices in this video, but more importantly, the song rocks. Chosen as the theme song for the cult hit show "The Wire" with Domenic West, this song kicks the proverbial ass. Watch. Listen. And by all means, enjoy.

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Buy This: Esquire's Fall 2009 Black Book

In 2006, Esquire magazine began releasing what they called their "Big Black Book: The Style Manual for Successful Men," an annual volume full of style tips, product recommendations, and all-around good advice on ettiquette, stain removal, ironing, button sewing, et cetera. The book came out in October, and after buying the first Black Book I was sold. I've bought every one they've published to date.

This year, Esquire changed their strategy and opted for semi-annual publication; one for Spring, and one for Fall. This made more sense, as trying to cram a year's worth of style and advice into one issue is nearly impossible. Spring's was splendid. Yesterday, I picked up the new Fall edition. Brimming with great new looks, as well as classic, the new Black Book features interviews with design heavyweights such as Paul Smith. It offers commentary on wines, cars, watches, coats, haircuts, dress shirts, cameras, grooming... just to name a few topics of interest.

It discusses how to break rules tastefully, how to stay warm in freezing weather, and how to better your posture.
For $9.95, you can't find a better go-to book. Pick one up at your local book store, or visit http://www.esquire.com/.


Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Required Listening: U2's "October" Album

Hey everyone. Style aside, I wanted to share with you one of the albums that always comes out of the catalogue this time of year. Sometimes it's Fall, and sometimes it's Winter, but as it gets colder outside, U2's October always makes it into the rotation.

I've always been profoundly affected by Fall. Musically I'm at my most creative, and I feel the most centered and at peace. Maybe it's the music... but then again I can never get into this album in warm weather months like I do during this time of year.

The featured video is for the song Gloria, my favorite song from the 1981 release. It features the first guitar solo I ever learned how to play, and will always be very special to me. Enjoy the video.
Cheers.
-Paul

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Fall Fabrics: The Big Cloth

Alright! Autumn has arrived; the season fashionistas everywhere wait for all year... the most versatile season when equal comfort can be found in a T-shirt and shorts or a lightweight sweater under a blazer (see previous post). Layers can be shown off easily- the weather's right for it, unlike in the winter time when bundling up conceals your carefully selected ensemble.

Out of all the options that open up for dressing during this glorious season, there is one quintessential fabric for fall that we must touch on today; that fabric, my friends, is tweed. The color pallette of tweeds can echo the lovely changing leaves of autumn with rich rust and brown colors (photo 1) or can epitomize the briskness of the air with cool blues and grays (photo 2).




















Tweeds are ideal for layering, available in many weights and thicknesses of fabric. They can keep you warm and wick away moisture, thanks to the amazing qualities of wool, which make up the fabric. Tweed, by definition, refers simply to a weave of wool, but today we will touch (ever so slightly) on the history and heritage that has kept tweed a stylistic staple for many, many years.

In Scottish Gaelic, the name for tweed was an clo mor, which means "The Big Cloth," referring to the layers of various texture and pattern that make up the wool's weave. Designed to be, effectively, one of the earliest forms of camouflage, landowners in Scotland commissioned tweed fabrics to outfit their gamekeepers (and themselves alike) during deerstalking and hunting. The patterns' colors were reflective of rock formations and foilage that decorated the surrounding landscape of landowners' respective estates. Landowners often had gamekeepers run up on the hillside with samples of proposed fabrics to see which one blended in better with nature's decor. This is how the multitude of variances of tweed patterns came about.

One variation of tweed that is quite popular this season, is the herringbone design. The simple twill (twill: a term for a woven pattern created by raising and lowering alternating warp threads in various combinations) of the herringbone design has been around for thousands of years, and looks very much like the skeleton of a fish (get it? Herring... Bone...). Different 2-color combinations can comprise a herringbone pattern, but usually a black or gray and a lighter color combine to create a rich, textured look when viewed up close (photos 3 and 4, below).
As I conclude our very brief history lesson, keep in mind that many popular tweed patterns exist, all with their own history, but focusing on the multitude would turn this post into far too detailed of an essay, which is not what we're trying to achieve here. What I want you to take away is the versatility of the fabric in composing your style. The availability of color and pattern can be the perfect pallette for pairing accessories with an outfit, be the accessory a necktie, a pocket square, a shirt, a zipper-neck sweater as a layering piece... the possibilites, given the variations of tweed prints, are virtually endless.
Take inspiration from the beauty of the season (and the majesty of The Big Cloth), and embrace the possiblities. Until next time,

Cheers!
-Paul

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Calculated Miscalculations

Hello again! Today we salute again those willing to take risks with their wardrobes by bowing to the principles of sprezzatura, the elegance of dishevellment, the intrigue of insouciance. Let's face it; the presence of a little nonchalance in one's outfit throws everything else into relief, offering the impression of a carefree attitude and unclouded demeanor.

One of my favorite methods I borrow from the Italians; the slightly wrong tie length (photo 1). I occasionally allow the back blade of the tie to fall a little bit longer than the front blade, and let the blades separate freely, giving my tie its own will. I like to do this with a spread-collar shirt and a slightly askew four-in-hand knot.

A Windsor knot, for example, can easily kill the look. The extended effort implied by the Windsor appears too fastidious and contrived. That's not to say that letting the back blade lie longer doesn't take a little work. It can be just as difficult to get the perfect "wrong" length from the tie, but it doesn't look that way. A Windsor, which uses a lot more of the tie in the knot, would require an extra long tie to allow the back blade to be longer than the front (requiring way too much thought and preparation), and the formality of the knot is very much the antithesis of nonchalant.

Another little maneuver that I regularly practice is leaving my cuff buttons undone (photo 2); I speak not necessarily of the buttons on my jacket cuffs, but on my shirt. Doing so allows for a more easy drape of the cuffs, and gives the material more freedom to peak out from the jacket cuff. The fuller look of the unbuttoned cuff is the casual equivalent of a French cuff and can be more flattering than material tightly banded around the wrist. This also allows one to have more of a selection of wristwatches to pair with the outfit, as the shirt cuff will not get hung up on a bulkier watch; a flub that can ruin the lines of an ensemble.

Experiment with sprezzatura and have fun with calculated miscalculations: wear bright red socks... let your pocket square scream from your breast pocket. Have fun. Just remember: the overall effect you want to present is that you gave little or no thought to these minute details; even if you tied and retied your tie for 20 minutes.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
Please click images for enlarged view

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Style Profile: An Interview with David Watkins of Astor & Black

Hello again! For today's post, I was fortunate enough to have the chance to interview my friend David Watkins of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers. David has made a couple of suits and shirts for me and does beautiful work. For detailed info on Astor & Black, click here: http://paulwaltersonstyle.blogspot.com/search/label/Astor%20and%20Black, but to sum it up, Astor & Black provides exceptionally high-quality suits and shirts for prices you'd expect to pay for off-the-rack clothing. The attention to detail is quite remarkable and David's attention to what his clients want is second to none.

Aside from doing what he does very well, David has a tremendous sense of style and I am always impressed with his wardrobe choices. It is always the highlight of my day when I have the opportunity to talk shop with David over a glass of scotch (or three). I was thrilled that today he agreed to share some of his thoughts on style with us on this site. Just imagine the scotch.

Paul: Before we get into the style discussion, could you provide a little summary of your professional background?
DW: I was a marketing and advertising executive for 10 years; my last stint was as a partner at a local advertising agency. I decided to follow my passion into clothing... and well... here I am today, slinging fabric.

Paul: From advertising to making custom clothing... What made you want to get into the haberdashery business?
DW: My passion for clothes and the process that goes into making them. There is nothing like it. Also, with this job comes freedom. I can meet clients virtually anywhere in the world - that to me is exciting.

Paul: How would you describe your personal style?
DW: Classic, with a focus on quirky details. I love a good 3 piece suit, but... like today I am wearing a blazer with a tie and jeans. I would sum my style up as "mine".

Paul: Who influences you, stylistically speaking?
DW: WOW. Toughie. I get inspiration from just about every angle of my life... from the hip-hop and brit-rock I constantly listen to; from the magazines and blogs I read, to the people I have met along the way. My grandfather was the most stylish person I have ever known, so a lot of what I do is pay homage back to him. He was always dressed to the nines; always sharp, even up to his last days. Very impressive - I am not there yet.

Paul: What would you consider to be the key components of an outfit?
DW: FIT. FABRIC. FINISH. Take a $5 suit and get it tailored and instantly you are in the game. FABRIC. Make sure it is not polyester. FINISH. Focus on the finishing details, add them to your old suits if you need to. Hand-picked stitching, functioning button holes, et cetera. Also very key: the details! Make sure they are right; the length of your tie, having the right amount of cuff showing, your zipper zipped up and so on. Small things matter when it comes to dressing well.

Paul: And regarding accessories, what are your essentials?
DW: Are socks accessories? I must have a great pair of socks. Today they are bright red. I really do not have a rule when it comes to socks except the whole navy on black and vice versa.

Paul: If you could wear only one designer's clothing and nothing else, who would it be? ...Aside from your own, of course.
DW: Hell if we are dreaming I would probably take a stroll down Savile Row and get kitted out... hop a flight to Milan and do the same... I would probably seek out great tailors rather than great designers. That doesn't really answer your question now does it? OK... I think the Tom Ford Fall/Winter line is impressive so I will pick him... he is from the US. Go team!

Paul: How do you feel about what Thom Browne has contributed to menswear?
DW: Thom Browne has men really thinking about the cut of their suit and for that he should be set for life. I never thought it would take such drastic measures to make guys realize that baggy is not hip, but he did it! Thank you Mr. Browne for the reset.

Paul: Yves Saint Laurent said that fashion is fleeting, and style is eternal. How do you feel about this, and how do you stay stylish rather than fashionable?
DW: Stylish to me equals classic. Trends come and go, but style lasts forever. Take a great-fitting suit, add your small touches here and there and don't f#ck it up. There is a reason why we watch Mad Men and think "how cool are they?" They took the suit and didn't f#ck it up. Roger Sterling's lapels are a little on the slim side, the pants have little or no break, et cetera; overall they are classic and with that comes style. That's probably the reason you always see Tom Ford in the same or nearly the same outfit. He doesn't want to f#ck it up.

Paul: Are there any trends in menswear today that you absolutely love or hate?
DW: I never really hate anything too much... to each his own, ya know? Some things I adore, like the tie bar; it's great to see that making it's way into society again. Some things I am not keen on are blue suede shoes... oh, also triple pleated pants... I don't care how big you are: not a good look. I guess the biggest thing for me that I hate is when people take runway shows literally. They take the exact same outfit they witnessed on stage and copy it. Designer shows are typically over the top and meant to inspire. So when I see guys wearing this stuff... they look out of place like they are trying too hard. I hate that.

Paul: What is your favorite piece in your wardrobe?
DW: A Tiffany [& Company] tie bar handed down to me by my Dad. It has his initials on it. Also, my vests. I usually order one with every suit I buy... another weapon in the arsenal. You still do not see many guys wearing them, which is amazing to me! I just received a new double breasted vest... ready to break that out this fall for sure.

Paul: Okay, last question... we'll do it Barbara Walters style. Fill in the blank for me: "David Watkins is _______."
DW: David Watkins is THANKFUL.
This was fun... Thanks, Paul!
Paul: Thank you, David.

For information on Astor & Black clothing or to book an appointment,
contact David.
Email him at davidwatkins@astorandblack.com or call him.
(mobile)704-737-4274
(office)704-376-1102
Cheers.
-Paul

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On the Street: Breaking Black

I met a woman today who's style caught my eye. I was at my day job and she was a customer, so I abstained from a full-length shot... conflict of interests and what not. Before she left, however, I asked if she'd mind my photographing her watch/bracelet combo.

She was dressed nicely, with a form-fitting black knit shirt and some dark- wash skinny jeans. All in all, the outfit employed a very dark color scheme.
There was a little bit of ivory in her shoes, which, along with stripes of black, made up a very minimalist thong design. The big "black breaker" was in her watch, shown above (please click the image to see full size). She told me she had purchased both the watch and bracelet in New York City. I love the subway theme of the watch. In retrospect, I wish I had taken another picture to capture the band, which traced subway routes in bright colors against a shiny black plastic backdrop.

I was also impressed with her wearing of the watch with the chinese beaded bracelet. Cary Grant wore a thin gold chain bracelet with his watch, and I used to wear my bracelets on the same wrist as my watch as well... that is until I noticed the finish on a Rolex getting scratched and dull looking: not a viable tradeoff for fashion, in my opinion. A bracelet can be a very classy and tasteful accessory to a watch, and even if it seems a little bit more acceptable on a woman, the bold, chunky bracelet in the pictured example suggested a little bit of rebelious style.

A great point to take away from this post is the importance of breaking black. Through all of its darkness and neutrality, black clothing begs for one colorful accessory to scream out, "Here I am!" The key is not doing it ostentatiously. The subtle injection of color is a delicate art and can easily be overdone. I think the pictured example perfectly illustrates restraint and class.
This combo works. And it works well. I don't know that this delightfully colorful watch would work as well without the bracelet as its pairing. The colors in the watch, which our stylish lady must have worn with the intent of injecting some color into her ensemble, are kept at bay and restrained by more black, this time in the bracelet. Superbly done. Mrs. _______, I salute you.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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Neglecteth Ye Not The Tie Bar

Tacky? Outdated? Pish posh. I have heard select old and young sartorial figures use these words when describing one of my favorite accessories. I have heard praise over ingenious alternatives that remain unseen when used but boast tremendous function. I am talking about the tie bar, and for those who say they are dated (they originated circa the 1920's), you must have missed the huge resurgence that has been gaining intensity since even before Mad Men rocked AMC!

A tie bar (also tie slide, tie clip, or tie clasp) is a neckwear accessory that clips a tie to the fold of a shirt, preventing it from swinging and ensuring the tie hangs straight, resulting in a neat, uniform appearance. There you go. It has a function. The tie bar also, unlike nifty little doo-hickies that promise an invisible tie-anchoring method, has style. Loads of it.

Now I'm not saying that magazines such as Esquire or GQ should be held as law when it comes to the way one should dress, but they offer great guidelines, and the tie bar has been a prominent accessory in many men's publications for the past few years, pictured, but not necessarily shoved down the readers' throats. The nifty little device adds a small, tasteful flash of ornamentation to your chest, and throws a little bit of personalization into what can easily become uniform.

Tie bars are usually made of metal and often have minor decorative patterns. They are often engravable (although a monogramed tie bar may be a little over-the-top. Try an expletive to see who's looking!) and are usually seen in silver or gold. I prefer silver, as I sold my gold watch years ago and would refrain from blending silver and gold metals in the same ensemble.

There are important rules that must be heeded in order to do the tie bar justice. First, it should be simple- not a gaudy, bedazzled piece of jewelry for your tie. Wearing even a classic plain silver piece gathers enough attention. Trust me.
Second, tie bars are meant for slimmer ties and should always be shorter than the width of the tie. Even one that is the same width will look too big and needlessly break-up the natural line that the tie creates on the body. I do like to wear a tie bar with a standard width tie occasionally, but I cock the bar down at a bit of an angle to lend a bit of quirky attitude to the look (see the picture at top left. Tie bar by Dunhill).

Finally, keep the purpose in mind. Wear a tie bar not as an unnecessary accessory, but as a furnishing with a purpose: It should gently affix your tie to your shirt to prevent the tie from flapping around; useful as we approach the breezier fall season. What I'm getting at here is this: placement is key. A tie bar should not sit 2 inches from the top of your collar nor should it sit atop your navel. Think of the base of your sternum as the zero risk point. Gravitating too far away from this point in either direction approaches ridiculosity. Too high suggests pomposity. Too low, stupidity. Both detract from the function of the tie bar.

Way too high makes you look like a tool. If you are wearing some ridiculous 5-button suit that you stole from an NBA baller and want your tie bar to peak out from above your buttons, you will look like a moron just trying to flash some bling. A jacket with that many buttons will keep a tie from flapping about on its own.
Way too low, on the other hand, completely disregards function and provides the illusion that it's a miracle you were able to dress yourself in the first place if you get my drift. I like mine about an inch above the zero risk point. I'll show it to you, but I know how it works.

Remember this: men’s accessories with a vintage aesthetic never really lose their luster. Success with something like tie bar experimentation is just like any other part of getting dressed: it completely depends on how you wear it. An ill-fitting baggy suit and an overly substantial tie will not only make a tie bar appear exceptionally dated, but the contrast of sleek and shlubby will make the tie bar look entirely out of place. In the end, the right accessory is only as good as the person who wears it. Rock it well.
Cheers!
-Paul
( tie bar pictures: Left: Burberry, Right: Tiffany & Co., Top of page: Dunhill)