This will be quick. For the Fall and Winter seasons, it is imperative to have a velvet jacket at your disposal. The velvet jacket can dress up blue jeans for a casual ensemble, and can serve as the focal point for alternative black tie.
The key is this; with jeans, wear a crisp white dress shirt sans tie. The shirt should be nicely fitted. For alternative black tie, wear a black bow tie, black trousers, and either black cap-toe shoes, velvet loafers, or opera pumps (scratch that... save the pumps for white tie... unless you're in for serious rule breaking).
One should still wear a nicely fitted white dress shirt or a tuxedo shirt, although the look works better without a tuxedo point collar, but rather a spread or traditional point collar. French cuffs look best, and a subtle tactile texture in the shirt comes across very nicely.
For in-betweens (pictured) keep it minimal. White shirt, black neck tie (or solid color complimentary to your jacket color), black trousers, nice black shoes. Go bold if you must, with a brightly colored velvet jacket, such as this red Tom Ford offering with shawl collar (photo 2), but feel free to throw in some pattern to add some nonchalance and to deformalize the look a bit. For more formal occasions, one can never go wrong with midnight blue (left). In all cases, be respectful of the inherent formality of the velvet jacket and allow one 1/2 inch of cuff to show.
Velvet jackets are available from very low to very high prices, from a multitude of designers. I am wearing a customized vintage Hickey Freeman in photo 1. Tom Ford offers something similar today, but for lower prices, check Calvin Klein at Macy's, or just browse. Velvet jackets are big this season and everyone offers them. Get down with it!
If you ask any woman what item in her wardrobe is the least expendable (or the most versatile), she will probably volunteer without hesitation that her must-have item is her little black dress. It works for every imaginable event from a dinner date, to a wedding, to a funeral. Men are a little different. Some will claim their navy blazer, others that perfect pair of khakis. Other men will assure you that they must have a solid black neck tie in their wardrobes.
Don't worry; unless you wear it with a black suit, you will not be mistaken for an undertaker, hit man, or a chauffeur. Since black is considered a "neutral" color, most blazers in colors from khaki to navy can be worn with a black tie. It's plain enough to be worn with jeans, yet the dark color makes a black tie ideal for formal events, paired with a killer suit.
Many a man believe the black neck tie to be to funereal in nature, but I disagree. It can show that you mean business, or it can allow for a simple clean line to compliment your ensemble. Width is important. I think that a slim tie is the way to go. Don't be confused. By slim, I don't mean skinny. Reservoir Dogs was a great movie, but we're talking about style here.
My black tie is, at it's widest point, 2.75 inches, which is minimalist in nature, but not trendy. Too wide a tie and you'll look like you earn a second income waiting tables. Too narrow and you'll look like our Reservoir Dogs friends, bumping off jewelry stores. If the width is equal to or less than that of a dollar bill, you're in good shape. If it's less than 2.25 inches, well... time to cue up the George Baker Selection's "Little Green Bag". Just remember: with the already "stripped-down" look of the black tie, maintaining simplicity is key.
Another tip is to add a little bit of decor to your simple black tie by wearing a tie bar. The tasteful silver flash sets the stark black canvas into relief, and draws attention in a good way. Solid color shirts pair best with the black tie, so think white, blue, or, for the dandies in our midst, pink.
For some extra ornamentation, add a pocket square. This can match the shirt, or for the daring, be the source of pattern for the ensemble. If you stuck with the solid shirt, pattern is good for your square. If your shirt has a pattern, keep the pocket square plain. Otherwise, the shirt-and-pocket square-busy to tie-plain ratio is going to look way off balance.
One can never go wrong keeping all three elements plain and simple, as pictured to the left.
Thanks for tuning in, and until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
It has been called mightier than the sword. Its use can be attributed to the loss of millions of dollars, the death of millions of people, and the start of millions of dreams. One of the often overlooked accessories that is truly essential to the stylish man is a simple one: the pen. How many times have we had to borrow a cheap Bic Roundstic in order to sign off on a document of great importance, degrading the stylish natures of our signatures, which can be just as recognizable as our faces and may be the simplest testaments of our creativity? I'm sure that the best answer to this question would be "too many."
Carrying one's own pen, loaded with smoothly flowing jet black ink can add ample points to one's cool factor. It can up the appeal of your print, and can be the difference between getting hired for a job and having your application thrown away without a glance. When I was in charge of hiring for a previous employer, I provided a red pen to anyone who asked to borrow one when applying for a job. Applications written in red were not even considered. The long and short of all of this? Carrying your own pen will at some point prove to be the difference between your being taken seriously and being disregarded.
Now, that being said... what kind of pen should you carry? Mont Blanc pens are lovely yet very expensive, but are unarguably one of the most recognizable manufacturers of writing instruments. Their trademark white star prominently adorns the caps of their wares, spurring an instantaneous thought in the minds of those who see it. That thought may easily be, "Hey, nice pen." It may also be "How utterly pretentious." Not worth the risk if you ask me. I want to be taken seriously. I don't want my pen to tell people that I'm a jerk. They should be able to find that out on their own!
All joking aside, here's what I carry: the Parker Jotter (photo 1) . Undergoing very little change since its release in 1954, the Jotter is sleek and it looks professional. It shows that you put thought in carrying a pen with you, but not that you want everyone to know how much your pen set you back. It can be outfitted with gel or rollerball cartridges, and with its brushed stainless steel exterior oozes cool, minimalist style. The Jotter is reliable, doesn't leak, and it isn't bulky.
And the coolest thing about the Parker Jotter (other than its $10.99 price tag)? In 1995's GoldenEye (photo 2) , Peirce Brosnan's James Bond carries one in the pocket of his Brioni suits, proving that a man's stylish pen doesn't have to be proportionate in cost to a man's stylish threads. Now, Bond's pen actually doubled as a class 4 grenade and was a hell of a lot mightier than a sword, so I'm not saying all who carry a Parker Jotter possess the negotiating power of James Bond, but my point is this; Q Branch outfitted Bond with a pen that was functional, befitting of a well-dressed gentleman, and that did not draw unnecessary attention to itself. It is precisely that, gentlemen, that you're looking for.
Reader: Paul, I like your blog and agree with most of your opinions, so I decided to ask you a question to get your take on something... the pink dress shirt. I've always stuck to white or blue and have appreciated a more traditional style, but my girlfriend suggested I try pink and I wanted to see if you could offer any tips on how not to look too... "floofy", if you know what I mean. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Corey S.,Chelsea, Massachusetts
First of all, Corey, thanks for writing. You are, believe it or not, the first reader to write in with a question in a year of blogging. I'll take that to mean I must be reaching a broader audience. Far out. In regard to your question, I've long wanted to write a post on the pink shirt, but a couple of other bloggers I respect have done so, so I skipped it. But you, sir, have provided me the perfect opportunity, and consequently I must salute you.
I must first mention that the nature of the color pink whittles away at the security of many a man. It is not bad to feel squeamish about entering foreign territory. But as Jude Law says in the opening of 2004's Alfie, "If you ooze masculinity like some of us do, you have no reason to fear pink". And, yes, I've included the video clip of this opening segment here for your enjoyment. The truth is, pink is actually quite flattering to the complexion of many men. It adds more color to your face and makes you look healthier, and here is a fact that not many folks know: originally, pink was a color associated with little boys, and powder blue with little girls. The reason for this is that pink is derivative of red and suggests masculinity and strength, while blue was thought to be calmer and fairer, suggesting passivity like the fairer sex. It's true. Look it up.
So now I'm sure you're wondering when I'm going to tell you how to wear it. Well, the first suggestion is made by Jude Law's Alfie in the video: wear a pink shirt to spice up an otherwise understated suit and tie combo. A black suit with a dark solid tie makes you look like one of four things when worn with a white shirt; a) a mourner b) an undertaker c) a chauffeur d) a hit man (or Reservoir Dog... take your pick). Wearing a pink shirt adds a bit of personality to an otherwise bland ensemble. Granted, Alfie's character is indeed a chauffeur in the film, but doesn't look like one without his tell-tale cap and Town Car limo. Pink looks great with navy and grey suits as well, again bringing a little spice to the understated and simple.
The other way to wear a pink shirt is to accent it with a complimentary necktie. Now, complimentary doesn't mean your tie has to have pink in it. It can, but shouldn't screamI'm wearing f*ckin' PINK!!!!! Since doubling up on the pink requires a bit of practice and may too quickly nudge at your comfort zone, I'd suggest a tie with some red in it, which is obviously in the same color family without directly echoing the hue. I've included an example using items from my own wardrobe (pictured). In this ensemble, the red flower petals in the tie are complimentary to the pink in the shirt. The navy blue background of the tie corresponds with the jacket. Yes, my pocket square is pink as well, but a simple white cotton or linen square would be fine (pink on pink may require a little experimentation and or practice).
Here are a couple of things to consider, which are of course, my opinion. Don't mix pink with pastel colors outside of the color family, unless you want to look like a f*ckin' Easter Egg. Then you absolutely will look "floofy". Also, according to a good friend with a self-described "unflattering complexion for pink," some African American men cannot wear pink because of their skin tone. Very dark or light-skinned men can, but men who already have a bit of a reddish pigmentation in their complexion can seem to appear overpowered by the color pink. My friend with such a complexion brought this to my attention when I once suggested he wear a pink shirt. "Paul," he said. "I don't wear pink. Tried it. It just doesn't work." Obviously, I would submit to all of you to be the judge of your own complexion issues. But now, I've mentioned it, so it can be food for thought.
Thank you, Corey for writing in. I hope this helped. If there are any other questions you may have, feel free to drop me a line. Until next time, Cheers!
Can we all agree that men need to have a little fun every once-in-awhile? Okay... obviously a redundant question. I'm sure we all agree. We all have ways of getting our kicks, both publicly and privately, don't we? Sure, skydiving is a blast. Mountain climbing. Paintball. Streaking, if it's your thing. But certainly, fun doesn't have to come in the form of an activity suited for the X-Games, nor does it have to come at the risk of an indecent exposure charge. Sometimes we are forced to find fun within the confines of life's banalities. Perhaps we like-minded sartorial aficionados try to find fun in getting dressed.
One of my guilty pleasures has always been my almost ritualistic selection of an ensemble the night prior to suiting up for work in the morning. My wife picks on me for it; mentions it at inopportune moments in front of her friends, commenting on my obsessive nature with an accompanying chuckle. But let's face it; she loves it. I can guarantee that she secretly admires my love of clothing... loves having a husband who's fun to go shopping with... one who can objectively help her shop rather than stand around looking at looking at his watch and complaining about having to walk through the lingerie section... I digress. It is during my nightly selection of clothing articles that I look for ways to add a fun, playful element to getting dressed. In doing so the clothing itself becomes almost ancillary to the joy of pairing shoes with a belt or a shirt with a tie.
In difficult times, as many of us now face, we must always remind ourselves to reclaim our joy. Part of the reclamation of my joy lies in the simplicity of possessing the confidence to embrace whimsy, not taking myself too seriously, but being a serious devotee to a lack of the serious. And here is, without further ado, one of my methods.
A playful print tie does not attack the sensibilities of a sartorial enthusiast, but serves to compliment a choice in finery. Now, allow me to clarify; a playful print tie is still professional. A novelty tie, however, is not. Pictures of Santa Claus and bottles of Tabasco sauce, when pictured on a tie, make that tie a novelty tie, which, I'm sorry, but no well-dressed man should ever wear. I understand having such a tie in one's closet; such items are commonly bestowed upon men by their children on Father's Day and such. Throwing the gift away would be just plain wrong. Almost as wrong as actually wearing it. Do you get my drift? Okay. I will proceed.
A playful print tie, such as this one by Hermes (pictured) injects an outfit with a spirit of fun through it's subject, but maintains structure and professionalism in the quality of its construction and the geometric perfection of its repeating pattern. Salvatore Ferragamo, Charvet, Burberry, and Gucci are also known for their high-quality printed ties. Now why, you ask, should printed ties be considered rather than woven ties? Well first of all, the added thickness of a woven pattern can add bulk and can sometimes make for a more chunky knot. Not necessarily a bad thing with a cheap tie, but with a tie that is already made with substantial heft and balance due to the use of high-quality silk and a densely folded construction, the added substance can make even a four-in-hand knot look curiously large.
Secondly, the vibrance of color that can be seen in a print can be lost in the makeup of a weave. The pictured tie is a great example. The rabbit's blues gleam and the white in the sparkles at the tips of the magic wands almost seems to glow. The three-dimensional element of a woven pattern breaks up light and takes the focus off of the color. A printed tie can be busier than a woven jacquard without looking like there is too much going on.
Keep in mind that the idea of the tie here is just an example of the true point of this post. We're talking about fun. We're talking about reclaiming our joy. I will reitterate that the clothes or the shoes or the ties ar what have you are ancillary to the fun that we can have with the things we love. I hope you've been inspired in one way or another. Have fun. As famous journalist Helen Thomas once said, "Life is too short to drink the house wine." As I say; "Live accordingly."
Hello all. Today is the one year anniversary of the creation of this blog! The content has at times drifted from the original idea of providing information and photos of local sartorialists and fashion lovers and has become more dedicated to tips, trends, and staples, but I appreciate those who have stuck with me all year. Nikki: you were my first follower who encouraged me to post often. If you're still reading, thank you. I felt that the anniversary date required a little bit of recognition, but I'm not going to wax sentimental here and wear you all out by turning nostalgic. We have a style blog to write!
Today we're talking sneakers. For a while now, magazines such as Esquire and GQ (and Details, I'm sure) have featured the occasional photo of a suit paired with sneakers. I am often asked by people that I meet, after mentioning that I write and consult about style, what things can be done to bring an edge to otherwise conservative dress. This, my friends, is one of them. Pair sneakers with a suit or sport jacket.
Now, I'm not going to discuss ad nauseum the multitude of ways to pair sneakers with different articles of more formal attire, but be it with a suit, khakis and a blazer, jeans and a sport coat or what have you, I will say this: Think minimalism. Think classic. Think simple. Go for a sneaker with history, like Converse All Stars (pictured) or Jack Purcell's (J. Crew offers a "broken-in" Jack Purcell), Keds Champions, or Adidas Stan Smith's. Each of these models has been around for decades and have remained relatively unchanged. Avoid bright and loud colors. Go for something in a neutral, respectable color, such as navy blue, white, or bisque (leave day-glo to Kanye West). And be respectful... this is not a look for church, business, or funerals, no matter how fancy the sneakers. It's still a sneaker. This is a night out look. A casual Friday look... an MTV music awards look... you get the drift.
Common Projects (favored by well-dressed crooner Justin Timberlake and blatant tool-fop rapper Kanye West) offers a boutique line of sneakers based off of many of the classic designs mentioned above. The Converse All Stars in the picture, however, cost about $300 less than a pair of Common Projects. Buy according to your budget (I sure did)! In terms of pairings, start with khakis and a blazer. Pretend that you are Owen Wilson's character in The Wedding Crashers, enjoying some of Christopher Walken's New England hospitality. Pretend that you have a weekend party in the Hamptons... whatever. If you can make the sneakers work with khakis and a blazer, only then should you move on to suits. REMEMBER THAT, and YOU'LL DO FINE!!! Thanks for a great year.
This look is a staple for any man, and I implore you to get comfortable with this look so that you can pull it off with finesse. The look is a cornerstone to minimalism and looks great on any man of style. Let your pocket square stand in for your tie. There are a number of reasons for going sans-necktie; one is the season, and this is a winning spring look. Also, when going to cocktail parties that require a smidgeon of elegance, this look works great. After work dinners (or drinks), casual Fridays... the list goes on. It works.
Try it with jeans, khakis, a suit, odd pants... a navy blazer is a great building block (the navy blazer alone is a wardrobe staple) for this look. Choose a pocket square that compliments your shirt: is this case, both the blue and pink stripes in this shirt are echoed in the pocket square. With a suit, let the pocket square grab the color of a pinstripe or pattern in the suit fabric.
A crisp collar that stands well on its own delivers the appropriate heir of formality to the look. There's really not much needed in the way of instruction: only experimentation, which I will leave to you, my friends. Until next time,
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This will be quick. For the Fall and Winter seasons, it is imperative to have a velvet jacket at your disposal. The velvet jacket can dress up blue jeans for a casual ensemble, and can serve as the focal point for alternative black tie. 
