Fall Fabrics: The Big Cloth

Alright! Autumn has arrived; the season fashionistas everywhere wait for all year... the most versatile season when equal comfort can be found in a T-shirt and shorts or a lightweight sweater under a blazer (see previous post). Layers can be shown off easily- the weather's right for it, unlike in the winter time when bundling up conceals your carefully selected ensemble.

Out of all the options that open up for dressing during this glorious season, there is one quintessential fabric for fall that we must touch on today; that fabric, my friends, is tweed. The color pallette of tweeds can echo the lovely changing leaves of autumn with rich rust and brown colors (photo 1) or can epitomize the briskness of the air with cool blues and grays (photo 2).




















Tweeds are ideal for layering, available in many weights and thicknesses of fabric. They can keep you warm and wick away moisture, thanks to the amazing qualities of wool, which make up the fabric. Tweed, by definition, refers simply to a weave of wool, but today we will touch (ever so slightly) on the history and heritage that has kept tweed a stylistic staple for many, many years.

In Scottish Gaelic, the name for tweed was an clo mor, which means "The Big Cloth," referring to the layers of various texture and pattern that make up the wool's weave. Designed to be, effectively, one of the earliest forms of camouflage, landowners in Scotland commissioned tweed fabrics to outfit their gamekeepers (and themselves alike) during deerstalking and hunting. The patterns' colors were reflective of rock formations and foilage that decorated the surrounding landscape of landowners' respective estates. Landowners often had gamekeepers run up on the hillside with samples of proposed fabrics to see which one blended in better with nature's decor. This is how the multitude of variances of tweed patterns came about.

One variation of tweed that is quite popular this season, is the herringbone design. The simple twill (twill: a term for a woven pattern created by raising and lowering alternating warp threads in various combinations) of the herringbone design has been around for thousands of years, and looks very much like the skeleton of a fish (get it? Herring... Bone...). Different 2-color combinations can comprise a herringbone pattern, but usually a black or gray and a lighter color combine to create a rich, textured look when viewed up close (photos 3 and 4, below).
As I conclude our very brief history lesson, keep in mind that many popular tweed patterns exist, all with their own history, but focusing on the multitude would turn this post into far too detailed of an essay, which is not what we're trying to achieve here. What I want you to take away is the versatility of the fabric in composing your style. The availability of color and pattern can be the perfect pallette for pairing accessories with an outfit, be the accessory a necktie, a pocket square, a shirt, a zipper-neck sweater as a layering piece... the possibilites, given the variations of tweed prints, are virtually endless.
Take inspiration from the beauty of the season (and the majesty of The Big Cloth), and embrace the possiblities. Until next time,

Cheers!
-Paul

Calculated Miscalculations

Hello again! Today we salute again those willing to take risks with their wardrobes by bowing to the principles of sprezzatura, the elegance of dishevellment, the intrigue of insouciance. Let's face it; the presence of a little nonchalance in one's outfit throws everything else into relief, offering the impression of a carefree attitude and unclouded demeanor.

One of my favorite methods I borrow from the Italians; the slightly wrong tie length (photo 1). I occasionally allow the back blade of the tie to fall a little bit longer than the front blade, and let the blades separate freely, giving my tie its own will. I like to do this with a spread-collar shirt and a slightly askew four-in-hand knot.

A Windsor knot, for example, can easily kill the look. The extended effort implied by the Windsor appears too fastidious and contrived. That's not to say that letting the back blade lie longer doesn't take a little work. It can be just as difficult to get the perfect "wrong" length from the tie, but it doesn't look that way. A Windsor, which uses a lot more of the tie in the knot, would require an extra long tie to allow the back blade to be longer than the front (requiring way too much thought and preparation), and the formality of the knot is very much the antithesis of nonchalant.

Another little maneuver that I regularly practice is leaving my cuff buttons undone (photo 2); I speak not necessarily of the buttons on my jacket cuffs, but on my shirt. Doing so allows for a more easy drape of the cuffs, and gives the material more freedom to peak out from the jacket cuff. The fuller look of the unbuttoned cuff is the casual equivalent of a French cuff and can be more flattering than material tightly banded around the wrist. This also allows one to have more of a selection of wristwatches to pair with the outfit, as the shirt cuff will not get hung up on a bulkier watch; a flub that can ruin the lines of an ensemble.

Experiment with sprezzatura and have fun with calculated miscalculations: wear bright red socks... let your pocket square scream from your breast pocket. Have fun. Just remember: the overall effect you want to present is that you gave little or no thought to these minute details; even if you tied and retied your tie for 20 minutes.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
Please click images for enlarged view

Style Profile: An Interview with David Watkins of Astor & Black

Hello again! For today's post, I was fortunate enough to have the chance to interview my friend David Watkins of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers. David has made a couple of suits and shirts for me and does beautiful work. For detailed info on Astor & Black, click here: http://paulwaltersonstyle.blogspot.com/search/label/Astor%20and%20Black, but to sum it up, Astor & Black provides exceptionally high-quality suits and shirts for prices you'd expect to pay for off-the-rack clothing. The attention to detail is quite remarkable and David's attention to what his clients want is second to none.

Aside from doing what he does very well, David has a tremendous sense of style and I am always impressed with his wardrobe choices. It is always the highlight of my day when I have the opportunity to talk shop with David over a glass of scotch (or three). I was thrilled that today he agreed to share some of his thoughts on style with us on this site. Just imagine the scotch.

Paul: Before we get into the style discussion, could you provide a little summary of your professional background?
DW: I was a marketing and advertising executive for 10 years; my last stint was as a partner at a local advertising agency. I decided to follow my passion into clothing... and well... here I am today, slinging fabric.

Paul: From advertising to making custom clothing... What made you want to get into the haberdashery business?
DW: My passion for clothes and the process that goes into making them. There is nothing like it. Also, with this job comes freedom. I can meet clients virtually anywhere in the world - that to me is exciting.

Paul: How would you describe your personal style?
DW: Classic, with a focus on quirky details. I love a good 3 piece suit, but... like today I am wearing a blazer with a tie and jeans. I would sum my style up as "mine".

Paul: Who influences you, stylistically speaking?
DW: WOW. Toughie. I get inspiration from just about every angle of my life... from the hip-hop and brit-rock I constantly listen to; from the magazines and blogs I read, to the people I have met along the way. My grandfather was the most stylish person I have ever known, so a lot of what I do is pay homage back to him. He was always dressed to the nines; always sharp, even up to his last days. Very impressive - I am not there yet.

Paul: What would you consider to be the key components of an outfit?
DW: FIT. FABRIC. FINISH. Take a $5 suit and get it tailored and instantly you are in the game. FABRIC. Make sure it is not polyester. FINISH. Focus on the finishing details, add them to your old suits if you need to. Hand-picked stitching, functioning button holes, et cetera. Also very key: the details! Make sure they are right; the length of your tie, having the right amount of cuff showing, your zipper zipped up and so on. Small things matter when it comes to dressing well.

Paul: And regarding accessories, what are your essentials?
DW: Are socks accessories? I must have a great pair of socks. Today they are bright red. I really do not have a rule when it comes to socks except the whole navy on black and vice versa.

Paul: If you could wear only one designer's clothing and nothing else, who would it be? ...Aside from your own, of course.
DW: Hell if we are dreaming I would probably take a stroll down Savile Row and get kitted out... hop a flight to Milan and do the same... I would probably seek out great tailors rather than great designers. That doesn't really answer your question now does it? OK... I think the Tom Ford Fall/Winter line is impressive so I will pick him... he is from the US. Go team!

Paul: How do you feel about what Thom Browne has contributed to menswear?
DW: Thom Browne has men really thinking about the cut of their suit and for that he should be set for life. I never thought it would take such drastic measures to make guys realize that baggy is not hip, but he did it! Thank you Mr. Browne for the reset.

Paul: Yves Saint Laurent said that fashion is fleeting, and style is eternal. How do you feel about this, and how do you stay stylish rather than fashionable?
DW: Stylish to me equals classic. Trends come and go, but style lasts forever. Take a great-fitting suit, add your small touches here and there and don't f#ck it up. There is a reason why we watch Mad Men and think "how cool are they?" They took the suit and didn't f#ck it up. Roger Sterling's lapels are a little on the slim side, the pants have little or no break, et cetera; overall they are classic and with that comes style. That's probably the reason you always see Tom Ford in the same or nearly the same outfit. He doesn't want to f#ck it up.

Paul: Are there any trends in menswear today that you absolutely love or hate?

DW: I never really hate anything too much... to each his own, ya know? Some things I adore, like the tie bar; it's great to see that making it's way into society again. Some things I am not keen on are blue suede shoes... oh, also triple pleated pants... I don't care how big you are: not a good look. I guess the biggest thing for me that I hate is when people take runway shows literally. They take the exact same outfit they witnessed on stage and copy it. Designer shows are typically over the top and meant to inspire. So when I see guys wearing this stuff... they look out of place like they are trying too hard. I hate that.

Paul: What is your favorite piece in your wardrobe?

DW: A Tiffany [& Company] tie bar handed down to me by my Dad. It has his initials on it. Also, my vests. I usually order one with every suit I buy... another weapon in the arsenal. You still do not see many guys wearing them, which is amazing to me! I just received a new double breasted vest... ready to break that out this fall for sure.

Paul: Okay, last question... we'll do it Barbara Walters style. Fill in the blank for me: "David Watkins is _______."

DW: David Watkins is THANKFUL.
This was fun... Thanks, Paul!

Paul: Thank you, David.

For information on Astor & Black clothing or to book an appointment,

contact David.

Email him at davidwatkins@astorandblack.com or call him.

(mobile)704-737-4274

(office)704-376-1102

Cheers.

-Paul

On the Street: Breaking Black

I met a woman today who's style caught my eye. I was at my day job and she was a customer, so I abstained from a full-length shot... conflict of interests and what not. Before she left, however, I asked if she'd mind my photographing her watch/bracelet combo.

She was dressed nicely, with a form-fitting black knit shirt and some dark- wash skinny jeans. All in all, the outfit employed a very dark color scheme.
There was a little bit of ivory in her shoes, which, along with stripes of black, made up a very minimalist thong design. The big "black breaker" was in her watch, shown above (please click the image to see full size). She told me she had purchased both the watch and bracelet in New York City. I love the subway theme of the watch. In retrospect, I wish I had taken another picture to capture the band, which traced subway routes in bright colors against a shiny black plastic backdrop.

I was also impressed with her wearing of the watch with the chinese beaded bracelet. Cary Grant wore a thin gold chain bracelet with his watch, and I used to wear my bracelets on the same wrist as my watch as well... that is until I noticed the finish on a Rolex getting scratched and dull looking: not a viable tradeoff for fashion, in my opinion. A bracelet can be a very classy and tasteful accessory to a watch, and even if it seems a little bit more acceptable on a woman, the bold, chunky bracelet in the pictured example suggested a little bit of rebelious style.

A great point to take away from this post is the importance of breaking black. Through all of its darkness and neutrality, black clothing begs for one colorful accessory to scream out, "Here I am!" The key is not doing it ostentatiously. The subtle injection of color is a delicate art and can easily be overdone. I think the pictured example perfectly illustrates restraint and class.
This combo works. And it works well. I don't know that this delightfully colorful watch would work as well without the bracelet as its pairing. The colors in the watch, which our stylish lady must have worn with the intent of injecting some color into her ensemble, are kept at bay and restrained by more black, this time in the bracelet. Superbly done. Mrs. _______, I salute you.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Neglecteth Ye Not The Tie Bar

Tacky? Outdated? Pish posh. I have heard select old and young sartorial figures use these words when describing one of my favorite accessories. I have heard praise over ingenious alternatives that remain unseen when used but boast tremendous function. I am talking about the tie bar, and for those who say they are dated (they originated circa the 1920's), you must have missed the huge resurgence that has been gaining intensity since even before Mad Men rocked AMC!

A tie bar (also tie slide, tie clip, or tie clasp) is a neckwear accessory that clips a tie to the fold of a shirt, preventing it from swinging and ensuring the tie hangs straight, resulting in a neat, uniform appearance. There you go. It has a function. The tie bar also, unlike nifty little doo-hickies that promise an invisible tie-anchoring method, has style. Loads of it.

Now I'm not saying that magazines such as Esquire or GQ should be held as law when it comes to the way one should dress, but they offer great guidelines, and the tie bar has been a prominent accessory in many men's publications for the past few years, pictured, but not necessarily shoved down the readers' throats. The nifty little device adds a small, tasteful flash of ornamentation to your chest, and throws a little bit of personalization into what can easily become uniform.

Tie bars are usually made of metal and often have minor decorative patterns. They are often engravable (although a monogramed tie bar may be a little over-the-top. Try an expletive to see who's looking!) and are usually seen in silver or gold. I prefer silver, as I sold my gold watch years ago and would refrain from blending silver and gold metals in the same ensemble.

There are important rules that must be heeded in order to do the tie bar justice. First, it should be simple- not a gaudy, bedazzled piece of jewelry for your tie. Wearing even a classic plain silver piece gathers enough attention. Trust me.
Second, tie bars are meant for slimmer ties and should always be shorter than the width of the tie. Even one that is the same width will look too big and needlessly break-up the natural line that the tie creates on the body. I do like to wear a tie bar with a standard width tie occasionally, but I cock the bar down at a bit of an angle to lend a bit of quirky attitude to the look (see the picture at top left. Tie bar by Dunhill).

Finally, keep the purpose in mind. Wear a tie bar not as an unnecessary accessory, but as a furnishing with a purpose: It should gently affix your tie to your shirt to prevent the tie from flapping around; useful as we approach the breezier fall season. What I'm getting at here is this: placement is key. A tie bar should not sit 2 inches from the top of your collar nor should it sit atop your navel. Think of the base of your sternum as the zero risk point. Gravitating too far away from this point in either direction approaches ridiculosity. Too high suggests pomposity. Too low, stupidity. Both detract from the function of the tie bar.

Way too high makes you look like a tool. If you are wearing some ridiculous 5-button suit that you stole from an NBA baller and want your tie bar to peak out from above your buttons, you will look like a moron just trying to flash some bling. A jacket with that many buttons will keep a tie from flapping about on its own.
Way too low, on the other hand, completely disregards function and provides the illusion that it's a miracle you were able to dress yourself in the first place if you get my drift. I like mine about an inch above the zero risk point. I'll show it to you, but I know how it works.

Remember this: men’s accessories with a vintage aesthetic never really lose their luster. Success with something like tie bar experimentation is just like any other part of getting dressed: it completely depends on how you wear it. An ill-fitting baggy suit and an overly substantial tie will not only make a tie bar appear exceptionally dated, but the contrast of sleek and shlubby will make the tie bar look entirely out of place. In the end, the right accessory is only as good as the person who wears it. Rock it well.
Cheers!
-Paul
( tie bar pictures: Left: Burberry, Right: Tiffany & Co., Top of page: Dunhill)

Required Listening: MUSE

Muse |MTV Music

I don't know how many of you do this, but often when assembling an outfit or stepping into my closet for inspiration I play theme-music of some sort to help influence the pairings I may decide upon. Some days it may be the old-school classical "swing" of Bach, and some days it may be the fantastic raw gritty offerings of Tom Waits at his most experimental. I gave up on using Johnny Cash for dressing inspiration, because it almost always leads to an all black outfit (I know... hardy friggin' har). Music selection depends on what I'm dressing for, and it depends on my mood. I'll keep you updated periodically on music that is influential to me (whether or not you could give a rat's patoot). Today I offer a theme-music suggestion for you at home. You'll have to decide what kind of event this music will be best suited for, but keep an open mind. It may give your work-wear the necessary stylistic kick in the seat of the pants.

I have long been a fan of British neo-rock band MUSE, but with the praise their new album The Resistance is garnering, MUSE is bridging the gap from cult-following to household name. Everything they record is fantastic, and they always sound perfect live as well, thanks to programming all of their sounds and effects to perfection into the live performance version of ProTools so that the blistering guitar tone, pulsating bass, dream-like keyboards and slamming percussion you hear on their albums is unadulterated during live play. Their sound is stunning. If you saw their performance on MTV's Video Music Awards last week, you'll agree with me.

Throw MUSE on when you're going through the closet next time and see where the music takes you. Here is their latest for your viewing/listening pleasure, Uprising. The words to this one ring very true to me as well, but that's an entirely different topic, and an entirely different blog. No one wants to read about the threat of a socialistic government on a style blog, right? ...oops... I said it.

Until Next Time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Gay Talese: Save the Tailors

Gay Talese, pioneer of journalism as we know it today, shares his affinity for tailored clothing. I have seen other bloggers post this video, but Gay's message here is very dear to me, as I do very much the same thing that he endorses in this video. I needed it on this site as well.

The emphasis in this video is not so much on bespoke clothing, but on stimulating the tailors' craft by using their wealth of skill and knowledge to personalize your existing wardrobe. The little details that Gay stresses in this video are what make tailors so important to the well-dressed man... especially to the man who wants his own personal style to shine through in his clothing.

In this video, Talese shares some of the personal touches he has had his tailors apply to his clothing, such as changing the color of the threads surrounding buttonholes on his jackets. I myself have had similar adjustments made to my own clothing prior to seeing this video, so I appreciate another man's love of the tailor's trade being made so mainstream.

It is true that tailors are a dying breed, which is saddening. "Alterationists" are a dime a dozen; the local dry cleaner can usually hem trousers or remove extra fabric from the seat of your pants. I prefer to have my work done by a tailor, one who could build me a custom suit or shirt if I asked him to. It is the tailor that transforms your garments not by hacking them up and sewing the seam, but by deconstructing the piece and lovingly recrafting it.

Save the tailors. Follow the Gay Talese "stimulus plan" to keep this wonderful species alive.

Until next time,
Cheers.
-Paul

Alan Flusser on Why Men Can't Dress

Alan Flusser wrote the book on mens' clothing. Literally. His best-selling book, "Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion" belongs in every man's collection. His approach to menswear focuses on style rather than trend. Principles such as fit and proportion, color and complexion, and prudence of selection are combined to help men build a wardrobe that will last for decades, rather than becoming outdated seasonally (if you don't own the book, check Amazon.com. Buy it).
Alan Flusser is the man that dressed Michael Douglas's "Gordon Gekko" in Wall Street, created custom clothing for Al Pacino and Chris O'Donnell in Scent of a Woman, and has been a style advisor to other films as well. His Made-to-Measure company has been in business since 1979 and is still thriving today.
In the way that I identified with the previous video featuring Gay Talese, I see eye-to-eye with Alan Flusser's opinions on the mistakes men make when buying and wearing clothes.

We share a disapproval of what Thom Browne has done to menswear (I literally shutter at the thought) by bastardizing classic tradition rather than developing it (I refer to the suits that look like Big Bird molting rather than Brooks Brothers Black Fleece, of which Browne is creative director: you don't f*%# with Brooks Brothers), and I am in total agreement with Flusser that Hollywood's leading men are so often enslaved to who it is that dresses them. Alan Flusser is a huge proponent of developing personal style and teaching the fundamental keys to selecting the right clothes for one's wardrobe, no matter what fashion dictates is currently "in".

Enjoy this video. Alan Flusser says many of the things I want to say to men daily, and would, if I had his accumulation of years and years of credibility.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Astor and Black Charlotte Show Room Grand Opening

My good friend David Watkins (pictured at Right) of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers is opening a show room inside Emerson Joseph men's grooming lounge, at their Uptown Charlotte location. The Address is 221 S. Tryon Street, and David is having a Grand Opening celebration this Wednesday evening, September 16. The event will run from 5:30 to 8:30 PM, and will allow you to see the quality of the product first hand and meet David, all while sampling fine libations from Jack Daniels Brands.

I have written a couple of posts concerning my experiences with David's work (one such suit I am pictured wearing at Left), but I'll recap for those of you who may have missed out.

Astor & Black provides custom made clothing tailored with the finest fabrics available at off the rack prices. Garments are completely hand tailored and all jackets are fully canvassed. Incredible attention is paid to every detail and finish. Clients choose from hundreds of suit fabrics from some of the finest mills in the world. All Astor & Black suits are tailored with standard features such as surgeon cuffs (functioning buttonholes), hand picked stitching and more. Every garment is tailored to your exact specifications and personal taste with unlimited styles and options.

All shirts are tailored with the finest cottons. Choose from hundreds of fabrics, thirty-one collar, fourteen cuff and eight pocket styles. Also, a choice of twenty-four monogram styles comes standard with every shirt order.

With Astor & Black, client convenience is of utmost importance--they can work out of your home, office or showroom. Your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed.

Package Pricing:

3 custom made super 120's cashmere/wool suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $2,200
3 custom made super 150's suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $3,300
3 custom made Scabal suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $4,400

Individual suits - $550 - $1350
Individual shirts - $95 - $110
Individual slacks - $150 - $450

Astor & Black also offers over-coats, cotton slacks, Mullholland Brothers leather and luggage, Babette Wasserman Cuff Links and Tie-Bars as well as Allen Edmond's and Loake Shoes.

If you have the opportunity, come to the grand opening and witness first hand how dropping off-the-rack dollars can land you in fully custom-made threads. I have been thoroughly pleased with my Astor & Black goods, and I know that you will too.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
(pictured: l) Paul Walters; c) Dwayne Waite, www.dw4r.com; r) David Watkins)

Tom Waits: I've Been Changed

This month's "Man of Style" plays an old Blind Willie Nelson song, "I've Been Changed". This is him with a guitar and a tambourine, as raw as it comes, and even in a worn polo shirt his style shines through. Notice again the emphasis on fit and proportion. You know what... forget it. Just enjoy the video.

Wants and Desires: The Car

I must preface this post by saying that I do love my car. I drive a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer that has been optimized with RalliArt (Mitsubishi's performance division) parts and tuned by myself and folks who specialize in import performance. The car holds it's own with most commuters in its class. It is a sporty sedan (great for a father of two), gets great gas milage, and has lots of leg room (great for someone who's 6'2"). I feel that I have a car that allows me to cart kids around yet still holds a little bit of sporty allure.

The shape and design of the car that I drive looks decidedly European, but... it isn't. What I really want (and may have to wait until my kids are grown and out of the house just to afford automotive upkeep) is a vintage BMW 3.0 CS. Ohhhh, yes.
Produced between 1971 and 1975, the BMW 3.0 CS (referred to internally by BMW as the E9) featured a M30 inline 6 cylinder engine that cranked out 180 horsepower (stock... racing models produced up to 340) using twin Zenith carburetors. And damn, if the car just ain't as sporty as hell.

The car is a coupe, but is a four-seater, and the beautiful leather interior just looked so much more racey and hip in the 70's, peppered with lovely perforation and accented by chrome, this car is so my style. The one pictured above was parked next to my wife's old place of employment yesterday at a BP service station, and in the absence of my camera I snapped a quick cell-phone shot, which robs the car of a little of its glory.
One day, I'll be driving one. Remember readers: life is too short not to fill it with the things you like. Even if you have to wait for them.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Man of Style: Tom Waits

Hello again.
Today's post pays tribute to my all-time favorite musician, Tom Waits. His eclectic musical offerings have spanned decades, but today I want to focus on his contributuion to style. Stylistically speaking, Tom Waits is the type of man we should all strive to be, not in the sense that we should emulate his look, but in the regard that Waits is a man who has developed his personal style, and maintains it with integrity.

From the seventies until now, Tom's style has evolved with him, but has never strayed far from where it began. Waits was, in his earlier days, regarded as some sort of neo-beatnik who lived just a notch above the streets and found solace in seedy, sleazy joints, honing his gravelly cigarette and bourbon drenched voice with perfection. Whether or not this opinion was factual or not doesn't matter; the man has always appeared comfortable in any setting, and in the clothing that he dons effortlessly.
The provided photos are taken from different eras and show a uniformity of style regardless of different types of dress. The consistency is what we're looking at here; the man knows what he likes and looks good sporting the threads.

I also like the timelessness of Tom's style. The outfits Tom wore in the photos from the seventies would look just as acceptable if worn today (when executed properly, which, of course, Tom does). The key to stylistic integrity is filling your wardrobe with the things you like, which when well chosen, will last you for years and remain stylish for just as long.
One thing that can be taken from the photos shown of Tom (courtesy of The Tom Waits Library) is his strict attention to fit. This is the one dead givaway that he is paying close attention to dressing well on purpose.

Whether in a suit or a denim jacket, the armholes are cropped and tapered, resting in the perfect spot on the shoulder. The bodies of his jackets fit close and snug, and the trouser legs sport a perfect taper. The importance of fit is evident from looking at Tom, and he uses fit and proportion to make his gangliness work for him, rather than trying to hide it.
Tom Waits represents an interesting sort of sprezzatura, remaining elegantly disheveled with the truest sense that he was never trying to look so damned cool... he just was, is, always will be.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul