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Luxury Overseas

A blog that I admire very much, http://welldressed.blogg.se/, posted this video. I'm sorry. I must post it as well. That way my family will know that when I die, I want my ashes scattered here. Oger, in Amsterdam, Holand. Enjoy the video, and check out Welldressed blog.

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Stylish Promise


Hello all. The upcoming film From Paris With Love, featuring John Travolta as a bald, goateed, trigger-happy CIA assassin and Johnathan Rhys Meyers as his desk-jockey straight man looks like it could be awful. The previews hint at huge amounts of novelty with questionable substance. It also looks as if it could be fantastic. It could be the perfect blend of action and witty dialogue. It could be Travolta's best work in this genre since 1997's Face/Off with Nicholas Cage, where both actors faced the challenge of playing each other's character and had to learn two sets of mannerisms, facial expressions, and speech patterns (masterfully done, even if in a heavy-action/not-so-heavy substance piece).
What the film does appear to promise to be is stylish. Set design looks impeccable. Travolta's bohemian-tough guy makes perfect use of leather jackets and scarves, while Rhys Meyers is draped in suits of impeccable tailoring. Here is a clip from the film, not seen on TV. You all be the judge, and let me know what you think of the coming attraction.
Cheers,
Paul

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Reader's Question: The Pink Shirt



Reader:
Paul,
I like your blog and agree with most of your opinions, so I decided to ask you a question to get your take on something... the pink dress shirt. I've always stuck to white or blue and have appreciated a more traditional style, but my girlfriend suggested I try pink and I wanted to see if you could offer any tips on how not to look too... "floofy", if you know what I mean. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
Corey S., Chelsea, Massachusetts

First of all, Corey, thanks for writing. You are, believe it or not, the first reader to write in with a question in a year of blogging. I'll take that to mean I must be reaching a broader audience. Far out. In regard to your question, I've long wanted to write a post on the pink shirt, but a couple of other bloggers I respect have done so, so I skipped it. But you, sir, have provided me the perfect opportunity, and consequently I must salute you.

I must first mention that the nature of the color pink whittles away at the security of many a man. It is not bad to feel squeamish about entering foreign territory. But as Jude Law says in the opening of 2004's Alfie, "If you ooze masculinity like some of us do, you have no reason to fear pink". And, yes, I've included the video clip of this opening segment here for your enjoyment. The truth is, pink is actually quite flattering to the complexion of many men. It adds more color to your face and makes you look healthier, and here is a fact that not many folks know: originally, pink was a color associated with little boys, and powder blue with little girls. The reason for this is that pink is derivative of red and suggests masculinity and strength, while blue was thought to be calmer and fairer, suggesting passivity like the fairer sex. It's true. Look it up.

So now I'm sure you're wondering when I'm going to tell you how to wear it. Well, the first suggestion is made by Jude Law's Alfie in the video: wear a pink shirt to spice up an otherwise understated suit and tie combo. A black suit with a dark solid tie makes you look like one of four things when worn with a white shirt; a) a mourner b) an undertaker c) a chauffeur d) a hit man (or Reservoir Dog... take your pick). Wearing a pink shirt adds a bit of personality to an otherwise bland ensemble. Granted, Alfie's character is indeed a chauffeur in the film, but doesn't look like one without his tell-tale cap and Town Car limo. Pink looks great with navy and grey suits as well, again bringing a little spice to the understated and simple.

The other way to wear a pink shirt is to accent it with a complimentary necktie. Now, complimentary doesn't mean your tie has to have pink in it. It can, but shouldn't scream I'm wearing f*ckin' PINK!!!!! Since doubling up on the pink requires a bit of practice and may too quickly nudge at your comfort zone, I'd suggest a tie with some red in it, which is obviously in the same color family without directly echoing the hue. I've included an example using items from my own wardrobe (pictured). In this ensemble, the red flower petals in the tie are complimentary to the pink in the shirt. The navy blue background of the tie corresponds with the jacket. Yes, my pocket square is pink as well, but a simple white cotton or linen square would be fine (pink on pink may require a little experimentation and or practice).

Here are a couple of things to consider, which are of course, my opinion. Don't mix pink with pastel colors outside of the color family, unless you want to look like a f*ckin' Easter Egg. Then you absolutely will look "floofy". Also, according to a good friend with a self-described "unflattering complexion for pink," some African American men cannot wear pink because of their skin tone. Very dark or light-skinned men can, but men who already have a bit of a reddish pigmentation in their complexion can seem to appear overpowered by the color pink. My friend with such a complexion brought this to my attention when I once suggested he wear a pink shirt. "Paul," he said. "I don't wear pink. Tried it. It just doesn't work." Obviously, I would submit to all of you to be the judge of your own complexion issues. But now, I've mentioned it, so it can be food for thought.

Thank you, Corey for writing in. I hope this helped. If there are any other questions you may have, feel free to drop me a line. Until next time, Cheers!

-Paul

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The Fine Print

Can we all agree that men need to have a little fun every once-in-awhile? Okay... obviously a redundant question. I'm sure we all agree. We all have ways of getting our kicks, both publicly and privately, don't we? Sure, skydiving is a blast. Mountain climbing. Paintball. Streaking, if it's your thing. But certainly, fun doesn't have to come in the form of an activity suited for the X-Games, nor does it have to come at the risk of an indecent exposure charge. Sometimes we are forced to find fun within the confines of life's banalities. Perhaps we like-minded sartorial aficionados try to find fun in getting dressed.

One of my guilty pleasures has always been my almost ritualistic selection of an ensemble the night prior to suiting up for work in the morning. My wife picks on me for it; mentions it at inopportune moments in front of her friends, commenting on my obsessive nature with an accompanying chuckle. But let's face it; she loves it. I can guarantee that she secretly admires my love of clothing... loves having a husband who's fun to go shopping with... one who can objectively help her shop rather than stand around looking at looking at his watch and complaining about having to walk through the lingerie section... I digress. It is during my nightly selection of clothing articles that I look for ways to add a fun, playful element to getting dressed. In doing so the clothing itself becomes almost ancillary to the joy of pairing shoes with a belt or a shirt with a tie.

In difficult times, as many of us now face, we must always remind ourselves to reclaim our joy. Part of the reclamation of my joy lies in the simplicity of possessing the confidence to embrace whimsy, not taking myself too seriously, but being a serious devotee to a lack of the serious. And here is, without further ado, one of my methods.

A playful print tie does not attack the sensibilities of a sartorial enthusiast, but serves to compliment a choice in finery. Now, allow me to clarify; a playful print tie is still professional. A novelty tie, however, is not. Pictures of Santa Claus and bottles of Tabasco sauce, when pictured on a tie, make that tie a novelty tie, which, I'm sorry, but no well-dressed man should ever wear. I understand having such a tie in one's closet; such items are commonly bestowed upon men by their children on Father's Day and such. Throwing the gift away would be just plain wrong. Almost as wrong as actually wearing it. Do you get my drift? Okay. I will proceed.

A playful print tie, such as this one by Hermes (pictured) injects an outfit with a spirit of fun through it's subject, but maintains structure and professionalism in the quality of its construction and the geometric perfection of its repeating pattern. Salvatore Ferragamo, Charvet, Burberry, and Gucci are also known for their high-quality printed ties. Now why, you ask, should printed ties be considered rather than woven ties? Well first of all, the added thickness of a woven pattern can add bulk and can sometimes make for a more chunky knot. Not necessarily a bad thing with a cheap tie, but with a tie that is already made with substantial heft and balance due to the use of high-quality silk and a densely folded construction, the added substance can make even a four-in-hand knot look curiously large.

Secondly, the vibrance of color that can be seen in a print can be lost in the makeup of a weave. The pictured tie is a great example. The rabbit's blues gleam and the white in the sparkles at the tips of the magic wands almost seems to glow. The three-dimensional element of a woven pattern breaks up light and takes the focus off of the color. A printed tie can be busier than a woven jacquard without looking like there is too much going on.

Keep in mind that the idea of the tie here is just an example of the true point of this post. We're talking about fun. We're talking about reclaiming our joy. I will reitterate that the clothes or the shoes or the ties ar what have you are ancillary to the fun that we can have with the things we love. I hope you've been inspired in one way or another. Have fun. As famous journalist Helen Thomas once said, "Life is too short to drink the house wine." As I say; "Live accordingly."

Cheers.
Paul

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Anniversary Post, January 16th, 2010... (and Sneakers!)

Hello all. Today is the one year anniversary of the creation of this blog! The content has at times drifted from the original idea of providing information and photos of local sartorialists and fashion lovers and has become more dedicated to tips, trends, and staples, but I appreciate those who have stuck with me all year. Nikki: you were my first follower who encouraged me to post often. If you're still reading, thank you. I felt that the anniversary date required a little bit of recognition, but I'm not going to wax sentimental here and wear you all out by turning nostalgic. We have a style blog to write!

Today we're talking sneakers. For a while now, magazines such as Esquire and GQ (and Details, I'm sure) have featured the occasional photo of a suit paired with sneakers. I am often asked by people that I meet, after mentioning that I write and consult about style, what things can be done to bring an edge to otherwise conservative dress. This, my friends, is one of them. Pair sneakers with a suit or sport jacket.

Now, I'm not going to discuss ad nauseum the multitude of ways to pair sneakers with different articles of more formal attire, but be it with a suit, khakis and a blazer, jeans and a sport coat or what have you, I will say this: Think minimalism. Think classic. Think simple. Go for a sneaker with history, like Converse All Stars (pictured) or Jack Purcell's (J. Crew offers a "broken-in" Jack Purcell), Keds Champions, or Adidas Stan Smith's. Each of these models has been around for decades and have remained relatively unchanged. Avoid bright and loud colors. Go for something in a neutral, respectable color, such as navy blue, white, or bisque (leave day-glo to Kanye West). And be respectful... this is not a look for church, business, or funerals, no matter how fancy the sneakers. It's still a sneaker. This is a night out look. A casual Friday look... an MTV music awards look... you get the drift.

Common Projects (favored by well-dressed crooner Justin Timberlake and blatant tool-fop rapper Kanye West) offers a boutique line of sneakers based off of many of the classic designs mentioned above. The Converse All Stars in the picture, however, cost about $300 less than a pair of Common Projects. Buy according to your budget (I sure did)! In terms of pairings, start with khakis and a blazer. Pretend that you are Owen Wilson's character in The Wedding Crashers, enjoying some of Christopher Walken's New England hospitality. Pretend that you have a weekend party in the Hamptons... whatever. If you can make the sneakers work with khakis and a blazer, only then should you move on to suits. REMEMBER THAT, and YOU'LL DO FINE!!!
Thanks for a great year.

Cheers,
-Paul

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Brooks Brothers, 50% Off

Just as an FYI, for those who don't know, Brooks Brothers is currently having (or are currently having, grammatically speaking) its (their) 50% off Winter Clearance Sale. I don't know exactly when the sale ends, but it's the perfect time to save. The reason I bring this up is because of my New Years Eve post regarding bow ties. Brooks Brothers has (or is it have?) a lovely selection of bow ties, hand-made in the USA out of fabrics woven in England. A multitude of styles are available half off, like the one pictured here that I picked up a couple of days ago.

Check out the sale while it lasts!
Cheers,
Paul

*If anyone knows whether Brooks Brothers should be referred to as an it or a they, singular brand or plural persons, please let me know. As a left-brain word analyst the uncertainty is driving me nuts!

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Shoe Grooming

If anyone out there is a self-professed "shoe queen" (believe it or not, Arnold Schwarzenegger has defined himself with this term), than the importance of shoe maintenance is obvious. Caring for one's shoes prolongs the service life of the footwear. Polishing alone, however, does not actually do the trick. A woman who puts makeup on her face everyday is going to suffer from horrendous skin problems if she does not wash her face and apply moisturizer prior to "putting on her face" and after er... taking it off again at day's end.

Awkward analogies aside, proper cleaning and moisturizing of our leather shoes will keep them feeling softer, looking new longer, and prevent drying and cracking, insuring years of comfortable wear (providing that they're not crappy shoes made of highly lacquered corrected-grain leather... in which case this post can be disregarded; the lacquer won't let the conditioner absorb).

What I suggest to you gentlemen, and ladies who may be reading, is that one use a leather conditioner on his or her shoes to clean and moisturize the leather. Meltonian Leather Balm and Kiwi Leather Lotion (pictured) are great choices. Use is simple: work small amounts into the leather with soft cloth. Allow to absorb for a few minutes. Buff. It's that simple. Afterward the leather will be softer and exhibit a soft lustre. One can polish afterward if one so desires, but it may not even be necessary. Best judgement is the key.



Obviously, doing this often will give the best results, but it's relatively easy and a relatively quick
process. Trust me. The shoes pictured here are the same Ferragamos from the last post, although they are now shown after using Kiwi Leather Lotion and no polish. Looks good, if you ask me. And even if you didn't ask... you are reading my blog.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

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When eBay Goes Right!

I thought I'd share with you one of the joys of eBay: taking a risk and completely scoring. I found these shoes on eBay in my size, crafted by none other than premier Italian shoe maker Salvatore Ferragamo. Online they looked like hell, but knowing Ferragamo's reputation for using high quality soft, buttery leather for their shoes, I figured that a little conditioning would go a long way.

I was looking for a pair of simple medium-brown cap-toes and these fit the bill to a T, but they definitely looked like they had quite a few miles on them. The soles, however, seemed to be very much intact without any spots of highly concentrated wear; one of my specifications when buying shoes on eBay is that I need not resole them.

There were some spots on the leather and the pictures showed what appeared to be heavy creasing, but again with buttery glove-grade leather, creases are not at all the end of the world. When I received them I was very optimistic. The shoes needed new laces, a spare pair of which I had on hand. Prior to re-lacing them I applied two coats of a brown cream polish and let each coat soak in for 30 minutes, buffing in between each coat. I then applied two coats of Kiwi neutral wax polish for a nice shine (again buffing between each coat). Cedar shoe trees and a couple of wears with newly conditioned leather knocked the heavy creases right out. Before (top) and after (bottom) pictures are shown here.

These shoes appear to be from Ferragamo's upper mid-line, and would have originally retailed for somewhere in the neighborhood of $550 to $595. On eBay, shipping included, I paid less than 10% of that price. This goes to show that the higher the quality of a used item, the easier restoration will be. I am very proud of the way these fantastic shoes turned out. They fit like a second skin. The leather is amazingly soft and supple. I could play baseball in them if I wanted to, remaining comfortable through all 9 innings. Take a risk with something truly fantastic at a thrift store or on eBay. You may find something that is (or that can be conditioned to be) as good as new while still being kind to your wallet. Enjoy the search!

Until next time,

Cheers.

-Paul

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Getting Good (Sleeve) Head

Many off-the-rack suits feature shoulders that are heavily padded. That's just the way it is. A shoulder pad can hide less than fantastic workmanship, and also provides an artificial structure for a suit maker to build from. Even very high-end off-the-rack suits may feature shoulder pads because of the lack of the buyer being present when the suit is constructed. The same is the case for made-to-measure and semi-bespoke suits. Simply stated, without the customer present it is hard to build a flattering shoulder on a suit jacket or sport coat.

There was a dark age in sartorial history when large shoulder pads were in style, but thank God, we've moved on from those days of yore. I mention frequently the importance of finding a good tailor. A good tailor is one that is not only adept at performing alterations, but one who is also a custom tailor... meaning he can build a custom suit or shirt for you himself if commissioned. I have such a tailor who does fantastic work. The nice thing about having such a resource is that your custom tailor can restructure a jacket shoulder for you as if he were building your suit bespoke.

There are two main types of shoulder sleeve heads that one will encounter (there are more, but in the absence of padding they are all a variation on one of these two) on a jacket. The first (photo 1) is a natural shoulder. The natural shoulder follows the curvature of your actual shoulder beneath the jacket. The line between torso and sleeve is relatively smooth (sometimes the area where the sleeve is attached shows pleating, as in Neapolitan sleeve heads. I will cover the Neapolitan sleeve head on its own in a future post). There is no shoulder padding necessary as the jacket sleeves are fashioned almost like shirt sleeves. This type of sleeve head can be found on Ivy-league, preppy-style clothing as offered by Southwick or J. Press, and can also be found in some Italian tailoring (again, we will cover the clothing of Naples in the near future).

The other main type of sleeve head is the roped shoulder (photo 2). The roped shoulder gets its name because of the bump where the sleeve attaches to the torso, appearing as if a rope lays beneath the fabric of the sleeve. The roped shoulder needs to fall exactly where the picture shows, which is why having the wearer of the suit present when the jacket is being made is exceptionally helpful. This can be done with very accurate measuring in made-to-measure wear, but pads are often still employed since the fabric is not following the lines of an actual body upon construction.

I must say that some guys will be able to get suits or blazers/sport coats off-the-rack that fit them perfectly in the shoulders and the body. All designers use fit models (or an individual on whose form a suit pattern is based) when styling and designing suits, so if a lucky guy's size and stature match up with a fit model, score. For most of us, however, we require skilled tailors to make a suit or jacket look as if it was made for us. My tailor has done it for me, and the pictures on this post are examples. Find one who makes it his personal mission to flatter your form, and stick with him. Visit him often, and keep his fine craft alive.
Cheers,
Paul

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Happy New Year!

Happy New Year! How much worse can 2010 be than 2009? Let us all pray for better!
Thank you for your support. Keep reading!