Calculated Miscalculations

Hello again! Today we salute again those willing to take risks with their wardrobes by bowing to the principles of sprezzatura, the elegance of dishevellment, the intrigue of insouciance. Let's face it; the presence of a little nonchalance in one's outfit throws everything else into relief, offering the impression of a carefree attitude and unclouded demeanor.

One of my favorite methods I borrow from the Italians; the slightly wrong tie length (photo 1). I occasionally allow the back blade of the tie to fall a little bit longer than the front blade, and let the blades separate freely, giving my tie its own will. I like to do this with a spread-collar shirt and a slightly askew four-in-hand knot.

A Windsor knot, for example, can easily kill the look. The extended effort implied by the Windsor appears too fastidious and contrived. That's not to say that letting the back blade lie longer doesn't take a little work. It can be just as difficult to get the perfect "wrong" length from the tie, but it doesn't look that way. A Windsor, which uses a lot more of the tie in the knot, would require an extra long tie to allow the back blade to be longer than the front (requiring way too much thought and preparation), and the formality of the knot is very much the antithesis of nonchalant.

Another little maneuver that I regularly practice is leaving my cuff buttons undone (photo 2); I speak not necessarily of the buttons on my jacket cuffs, but on my shirt. Doing so allows for a more easy drape of the cuffs, and gives the material more freedom to peak out from the jacket cuff. The fuller look of the unbuttoned cuff is the casual equivalent of a French cuff and can be more flattering than material tightly banded around the wrist. This also allows one to have more of a selection of wristwatches to pair with the outfit, as the shirt cuff will not get hung up on a bulkier watch; a flub that can ruin the lines of an ensemble.

Experiment with sprezzatura and have fun with calculated miscalculations: wear bright red socks... let your pocket square scream from your breast pocket. Have fun. Just remember: the overall effect you want to present is that you gave little or no thought to these minute details; even if you tied and retied your tie for 20 minutes.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
Please click images for enlarged view