Style Profile: An Interview with David Watkins of Astor & Black

Hello again! For today's post, I was fortunate enough to have the chance to interview my friend David Watkins of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers. David has made a couple of suits and shirts for me and does beautiful work. For detailed info on Astor & Black, click here: http://paulwaltersonstyle.blogspot.com/search/label/Astor%20and%20Black, but to sum it up, Astor & Black provides exceptionally high-quality suits and shirts for prices you'd expect to pay for off-the-rack clothing. The attention to detail is quite remarkable and David's attention to what his clients want is second to none.

Aside from doing what he does very well, David has a tremendous sense of style and I am always impressed with his wardrobe choices. It is always the highlight of my day when I have the opportunity to talk shop with David over a glass of scotch (or three). I was thrilled that today he agreed to share some of his thoughts on style with us on this site. Just imagine the scotch.

Paul: Before we get into the style discussion, could you provide a little summary of your professional background?
DW: I was a marketing and advertising executive for 10 years; my last stint was as a partner at a local advertising agency. I decided to follow my passion into clothing... and well... here I am today, slinging fabric.

Paul: From advertising to making custom clothing... What made you want to get into the haberdashery business?
DW: My passion for clothes and the process that goes into making them. There is nothing like it. Also, with this job comes freedom. I can meet clients virtually anywhere in the world - that to me is exciting.

Paul: How would you describe your personal style?
DW: Classic, with a focus on quirky details. I love a good 3 piece suit, but... like today I am wearing a blazer with a tie and jeans. I would sum my style up as "mine".

Paul: Who influences you, stylistically speaking?
DW: WOW. Toughie. I get inspiration from just about every angle of my life... from the hip-hop and brit-rock I constantly listen to; from the magazines and blogs I read, to the people I have met along the way. My grandfather was the most stylish person I have ever known, so a lot of what I do is pay homage back to him. He was always dressed to the nines; always sharp, even up to his last days. Very impressive - I am not there yet.

Paul: What would you consider to be the key components of an outfit?
DW: FIT. FABRIC. FINISH. Take a $5 suit and get it tailored and instantly you are in the game. FABRIC. Make sure it is not polyester. FINISH. Focus on the finishing details, add them to your old suits if you need to. Hand-picked stitching, functioning button holes, et cetera. Also very key: the details! Make sure they are right; the length of your tie, having the right amount of cuff showing, your zipper zipped up and so on. Small things matter when it comes to dressing well.

Paul: And regarding accessories, what are your essentials?
DW: Are socks accessories? I must have a great pair of socks. Today they are bright red. I really do not have a rule when it comes to socks except the whole navy on black and vice versa.

Paul: If you could wear only one designer's clothing and nothing else, who would it be? ...Aside from your own, of course.
DW: Hell if we are dreaming I would probably take a stroll down Savile Row and get kitted out... hop a flight to Milan and do the same... I would probably seek out great tailors rather than great designers. That doesn't really answer your question now does it? OK... I think the Tom Ford Fall/Winter line is impressive so I will pick him... he is from the US. Go team!

Paul: How do you feel about what Thom Browne has contributed to menswear?
DW: Thom Browne has men really thinking about the cut of their suit and for that he should be set for life. I never thought it would take such drastic measures to make guys realize that baggy is not hip, but he did it! Thank you Mr. Browne for the reset.

Paul: Yves Saint Laurent said that fashion is fleeting, and style is eternal. How do you feel about this, and how do you stay stylish rather than fashionable?
DW: Stylish to me equals classic. Trends come and go, but style lasts forever. Take a great-fitting suit, add your small touches here and there and don't f#ck it up. There is a reason why we watch Mad Men and think "how cool are they?" They took the suit and didn't f#ck it up. Roger Sterling's lapels are a little on the slim side, the pants have little or no break, et cetera; overall they are classic and with that comes style. That's probably the reason you always see Tom Ford in the same or nearly the same outfit. He doesn't want to f#ck it up.

Paul: Are there any trends in menswear today that you absolutely love or hate?

DW: I never really hate anything too much... to each his own, ya know? Some things I adore, like the tie bar; it's great to see that making it's way into society again. Some things I am not keen on are blue suede shoes... oh, also triple pleated pants... I don't care how big you are: not a good look. I guess the biggest thing for me that I hate is when people take runway shows literally. They take the exact same outfit they witnessed on stage and copy it. Designer shows are typically over the top and meant to inspire. So when I see guys wearing this stuff... they look out of place like they are trying too hard. I hate that.

Paul: What is your favorite piece in your wardrobe?

DW: A Tiffany [& Company] tie bar handed down to me by my Dad. It has his initials on it. Also, my vests. I usually order one with every suit I buy... another weapon in the arsenal. You still do not see many guys wearing them, which is amazing to me! I just received a new double breasted vest... ready to break that out this fall for sure.

Paul: Okay, last question... we'll do it Barbara Walters style. Fill in the blank for me: "David Watkins is _______."

DW: David Watkins is THANKFUL.
This was fun... Thanks, Paul!

Paul: Thank you, David.

For information on Astor & Black clothing or to book an appointment,

contact David.

Email him at davidwatkins@astorandblack.com or call him.

(mobile)704-737-4274

(office)704-376-1102

Cheers.

-Paul