Seeing Red, Part 2

Well here they are, in the flesh. These shoes fit true to size, and are very, very comfortable. The insole, shown in photo 2, has the perfect amount of padding and provides an excellent cushioning effect when walking. The suede uppers are soft and supple. All-in-all, a great bang for the buck.

I did shorten the laces, which were quite long, and I still feel the need to take them out and dye them red. The contrast of the white lace on the soft red upper may appeal to some, but I believe I'd like a more uniform appearance.
The red of the shoes is a nice balance between brick red and pink; my one reservation about dying the white leather laces is that they may turn out more pink looking, and therefore upset the balance of the overall shoe color.

The pebbled soles of the shoes, similar in appearance to those of Tod's (despite the absence of a few "pebbles"), provide excellent traction on slightly uneven ground. Granted, these are not an "outdoor" shoe, but the presence of a rubber sole makes wearing the shoes outside safer on the suede.

I look forward to peoples' reactions to these shoes. I'm sure I'll enjoy experimenting with appropriate pairings and discovering ways to wear them. If the red driving shoe is for you, my thoughts are that you will be well pleased with the price, quality, and comfort of this pair.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Seeing Red: The Red Driving Loafer (part 1)

I have a pair of driving mocs in chocolate brown suede. I picked them up from Banana Republic about a year ago. They are constructed rather well, except for the fact that the man-made insole causes one's feet to sweat and slide around in the shoe when going sockless. The problem was solved by purchasing some of the small loafer booties offered by such retailers as Banana Republic or Journey's (although Target sells them for a much lower price in the women's hoisery department, in a large size that accomodates a male foot). The lesson learned here was to buy a loafer with a soft leather insole: no sweating, and consequently, no sliding.

In the Spring of this year, Esquire magazine published their now semi-annual Big Black Book of men's style, and featured a driving loafer in a spread about Italian style (pictured, left). What got my attention about these loafers was their color. Bright red. Nice. After several months of not being able to forget how freakin' cool these looked, I decided I had to get a pair. Suddenly, a new problem presented itself: $$$$$$! The Car Shoe brand driving loafers featured in Esquire go for $420 bucks! Major drat. I looked around and found that Tod's makes a pair as well. $450 bucks! While I may have some $400 shoes in my closet, none of them have a novelty element to them (such as a bright red finish) that would limit my ability to wear them with everything. I'm willing to fork out some coin for versatility, but I can't justify such an expense on a driving moc.


Then, I found these (photo 2). Shoe manufacturer Born makes a red driving loafer (the Lynch) for just a value meal over $100. SOLD! These have an attractive appearance, a leather insole, and are constructed using the Opanka hand-sewn technique, where the upper, the padding, and insole are sewn together in a single process. Sounds good to me.

Now these shoes have been featured on some other blogs; most notably Tweed & Velvet (there is a link in my Blog List), and I haven't received mine yet, so after they arrive I promise a review. One thing that I may do is remove the laces and dye them red for a more uniform appearance... I think the white laces may be slightly distracting from the overall effect. We shall see. It's nice to have the prospect of a comfortable pair of driving shoes. If these work well, I may have to invest in some of the other color options that Born has available. The navy pair looks nice too. Check out the available Lynch models on Born's website, through the link here.
http://tinyurl.com/born-lynch


Until next time,
Cheers!
Paul

Rethink the Navy Blazer

Classics are hard to faze out. There was a time when a navy blazer was considered a staple for any man's wardrobe; a versatile jacket that could be paired with dress trousers and a tie for a day at the office or a meal at the country club, and worn with jeans and a polo shirt for a more casual approach was just the ticket for bridging the gap between the wearer appearing "dressed up" and "dressed down" (you can dress down an article of clothing. One does not, however, wish to appear dressed down on the whole). When worn with the former, the formality of a navy blazer would fall between that of a suit and a patterned sport coat. When worn with the latter, accessories can formalize or dress the jacket down just about as much as one likes.

When choosing a navy blazer, fit is paramount. The difference between looking like a reject from the masonic lodge and looking like a suave style maven depends on the fit. Slim jacket sleeves, proper shoulder positioning, and a trim-fitting waist are all things that today's navy blazer requires. Buying one as close to one's size as possible and having a good tailor give it a once over is crucial. If one is lucky enough to have a blazer fit properly off the rack, more power to ya, but my slender frame and broad shoulders mean that I almost always have to have the material rolling at the back of the jacket neck corrected. A good tailor is essential to the well-dressed man.

Another consideration that absolutely must be mentioned: the buttons. The traditional blazer buttons are a gold or brass color, and today, this doesn't sit well with many men. Perhaps the gold looks dated, perhaps it looks like one is trying to fake affiliation with an esteemed institution, perhaps you don't have a yacht... in any case, buttons can easily be replaced, and can be found at numerous online sources and fabric shops. Thrift stores, such as Goodwill or Salvation Army, also have blazers that one can buy simply to rob of buttons. 5 bucks for a set of buttons is a deal, even if the jacket they were once attached to doesn't make the cut. For button options, consider silver or pewter, or even mother of pearl (gray mother of pearl looks especially nice). Avoid leather covered buttons, as they can conjure up some of the same dated conceptions of gold or brass.

Photos 1 & 2 depict a navy blazer with proper fit. The buttons on this particular jacket are gold, and will remain so until I find proper replacements. I'm still scouting, and am looking for the absolute perfect set. My heart needs to burn within me. Note the texture of this jacket. The wool used has a soft, even hand, and is not the rougher, courser fabric that you saw on your father's blazer. This is another consideration. To maintain class and distinction, a finer fabric makes the blazer look even more timeless.

Small details are important too. Patch pockets, as shown in photo 1, are "back in style" and are even making appearances on suit jackets from very high-end clothiers. Also, a more narrow lapel, shown in photo 2 (no more than 3 inches at it's widest point), allows for a more modern interpretation of the blazer, after re-emerging from the 1960's style archives (thank you, Mad Men for bringing back the narrow lapel). Too much less than 3 inches is approaching the realm of trendy, so be careful... it may be okay on a suit, but on a navy blazer a somewhat traditional appearance is a good thing.

I hope I've given you some things to consider. Go find a navy blazer and rock it (it works really well with gray flannel trousers now that it's cooler). I will now leave you with a brief synopsis of the inception of the navy blazer, courtesy of www.tomjames.com.

In 1837 the Commander of the frigate H.M.S. Blazer was told that England’s young queen, Victoria, would soon inspect his ship. He took one look at the unsightly condition of his crew’s dress and decreed that they would get new uniforms. He decided on a short jacket with brass Royal Navy buttons.
There is a disagreement as to the color of those first Blazers. In one account, the jackets were striped navy and white; another reports a solid navy serge. In any case, Victoria was so favorably impressed by their attire that she required all the Queen’s sailors to be in similar uniform.

...so there you go.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Layers of Style

It's Fall now guys. The air is cool and crisp, and our car consoles are pumping out heat instead of air conditioning. One of the most beautiful things about Fall, aside from the lovely changing of the leaves and the smells of cold air and dying foliage (yeah... it smells good), is the ability to add some presence to our outfits by layering. It's colder, and warmth is a good thing, but staying warm in style brings an extra something special to the table.
One of the best ways to keep showing off your well selected tie and perfectly spread shirt collar is the v-neck sweater, or, for those who are slightly more daring, the zipper-neck sweater. The zipper neck allows the freedom to pop the collar as pictured, or to tuck it under for a more subdued statement. Keep in mind that tucking the collar under the jacket could cause a bit of a lump or gap at the back of your jacket collar: if this is a problem, a v-neck may be a better option for you.
Choose a sweater that is thin and delicate, constructed of a fine fabric such as cashmere or merino wool, so that when worn under a sport coat or blazer one doesn't add to much unnecessary bulk to the torso. The idea is to stay warm, but not to look like a climb up Mount Everest is on the daily agenda.
Adding such a layer allows one the opportunity to be even more playful with colors. Note the example pictured, where the navy blue sweater is echoed by the navy blue in the pocket square, and the navy is also complimentary to the blue stripes in the shirt. Textures are somewhat repeated as well; both the sweater and the blazer are cashmere, so that even with bold patterns there is an anchor of consistency by way of fabric selection.
Get creative, have fun, but use the colder months as a chance to experiment with layering.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Xavier Rudd, "Messages"

I first heard this song at the end of an episode of the hit Showtime series Weeds. I initially thought the song to be by Paul Simon: the resemblance between Australian singer/songwriter Xavier Rudd's and Paul Simon's voice is amazing, but after some tedious research (including lurking on Weeds discussion fora), I found the truth. The video shown here is from a live concert where Rudd performed the song for a small audience, sposored by an independent radio station at Northern Kentucky University. The song can be found on Rudd's album, "Food in the Belly". Enjoy.

The Eyes are the Window... Of Your Face

The title borrows a line from Christopher Walken's "Googlie Eyes Gardener" sketch on SNL... you can find it on Hulu and you'll thank me after watching it.
That aside, today's post is about glasses, and if you're one of the fortunate folks out there with 20/20 vision, I am very happy for you. Contact lenses are a pain in the ass, laser surgery is expensive, and misplacing your glasses or having them fall behind a nightstand sucks.
However, the time for hiding your handicap if you do have less then stellar vision can be over for you, if you opt for a pair of killer frames (you still might drop them behind your nightstand, though).
My recommendation is something thick and noticable. Thin little titanium frames look like you're trying to wear something that people won't see, and this kind of kills the idea of glasses as an accessory all together. Yes! I said accessory! If you're reading this blog regularly, style is important to you, and if you have to have corrected vision, you might as well use your plight as an opportunity to make a statement!
I am absolutely in love with the Lemtosh frames by Moscot (pictured, available at http://www.moscot.com/). The Lemtosh frames have been worn by the likes of Buddy Holly and Truman Capote, and Johnny Depp is regularly seen sporting a pair (pictured). The groovy vintage feel of these frames imparts a sense of nostalgia, but their timeless looks make the Lemtoshes look great today as well. I was going to post a picture of these frames and leave it at that, but then I remembered that GQ Rules produced a video about wearing glasses, and featured none other than Moscot as a site for filming. The Lemtosh frames can be seen in this video on both Kenny Moscot and Adam Rapoport, the video host.
Embrace the idea of wearing frames. Most vision stores have staff who are very helpful at helping one find frames to fit a unique facial structure, so go and try a few on... even if you're just "window" (of the face) shopping.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Wear It On Your Chest

Hello again! Today we return after many posts, to the topic of the pocket square. I've touched on pocket squares before, but have never covered the basics of proper square selection and decorum. The pocket square was for years a forgotten accessory, and I'd still consider it to be one of the most underrated. The breast pocket in a jacket was designed to display one, and having an added dash of color on your chest can do wonders for your overall appearance.

Now, with the advent of the Mad Men era, style is returning to the days of old, and many men are rediscovering the pocket square. Some choose to go for a crisply folded white square (Mad Men style), which always works well for providing contrast to an ensemble, allowing one's collar, cuffs, and square to break the visual monotony of the jacket. When straying from white, however, many men execute the wear of the square poorly. Mistakes are easily made, and I'm hoping that my two cents can help some folks avoid the pitfalls of square wear.

First of all, if you ever end up buying a pocket square and tie that come as a set, do not wear the two together. I would recommend refraining from buying these sets all-together, because in most circumstances, the ties are poorly made. A square/tie set always screams bargain basement to me, and those who know clothing and see you wearing an obvious set will think the same thing. Choose a square that is complimentary to your tie, but different (photo 1). In the pictured example, the colors are the same, but it is obvious that the tie and square are cut from different cloths.

Another method involves choosing a square to compliment a pattern in a suit (photo 2). In this example, the blue and gold pinstripe in the suit are echoed in the pocket square. The green base color of the pocket square is in the family of both the blue and the gold. The tie is complimentary here as well, with blue and orange accent colors.




















Finally, the most daring approach involves pairing your pocket square with neither the tie or jacket, but with a color in the shirt (photo 3). In this case, one needs to look at the pocket square as a sort of second necktie, independent of the actual necktie. You follow? If you didn't have on the tie that you are wearing, would the colors of the pocket square serve in a necktie. In the pictured example, the actual tie compliments the cranberry colors in the jacket, and the pocket square compliments the undercheck of the shirt. Not everone will be comfortable with this type of pairing, but when you are able to put an outfit together in this manner it shows that you are looking at dressing as an artform, and not simply as a means of covering your rear end.

This post could go on and on; this is a simplified explanation of wearing the pocket square, but I am hoping that it's just enough to get you thinking and to jump-start the creativity of the man and his wardrobe. Try it out, take some risks, and be creative!

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Tom Waits, "Way Down in the Hole"

Very interesting stylistic choices in this video, but more importantly, the song rocks. Chosen as the theme song for the cult hit show "The Wire" with Domenic West, this song kicks the proverbial ass. Watch. Listen. And by all means, enjoy.

Buy This: Esquire's Fall 2009 Black Book

In 2006, Esquire magazine began releasing what they called their "Big Black Book: The Style Manual for Successful Men," an annual volume full of style tips, product recommendations, and all-around good advice on ettiquette, stain removal, ironing, button sewing, et cetera. The book came out in October, and after buying the first Black Book I was sold. I've bought every one they've published to date.

This year, Esquire changed their strategy and opted for semi-annual publication; one for Spring, and one for Fall. This made more sense, as trying to cram a year's worth of style and advice into one issue is nearly impossible. Spring's was splendid. Yesterday, I picked up the new Fall edition. Brimming with great new looks, as well as classic, the new Black Book features interviews with design heavyweights such as Paul Smith. It offers commentary on wines, cars, watches, coats, haircuts, dress shirts, cameras, grooming... just to name a few topics of interest.

It discusses how to break rules tastefully, how to stay warm in freezing weather, and how to better your posture.
For $9.95, you can't find a better go-to book. Pick one up at your local book store, or visit http://www.esquire.com/.


Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: U2's "October" Album

Hey everyone. Style aside, I wanted to share with you one of the albums that always comes out of the catalogue this time of year. Sometimes it's Fall, and sometimes it's Winter, but as it gets colder outside, U2's October always makes it into the rotation.

I've always been profoundly affected by Fall. Musically I'm at my most creative, and I feel the most centered and at peace. Maybe it's the music... but then again I can never get into this album in warm weather months like I do during this time of year.

The featured video is for the song Gloria, my favorite song from the 1981 release. It features the first guitar solo I ever learned how to play, and will always be very special to me. Enjoy the video.
Cheers.
-Paul