New Site Name

Thank you to all of this site's loyal readers. While readers can still reach this site from our blogger address, paulwaltersonstyle.blogspot.com, a new domain name should allow some ease of access. Our new web site is http://www.stylesite.us/. Thank you again for your continued patronage! Cheers,
Paul

Wardrobe Staple: The Black Neck Tie

If you ask any woman what item in her wardrobe is the least expendable (or the most versatile), she will probably volunteer without hesitation that her must-have item is her little black dress. It works for every imaginable event from a dinner date, to a wedding, to a funeral. Men are a little different. Some will claim their navy blazer, others that perfect pair of khakis. Other men will assure you that they must have a solid black neck tie in their wardrobes.

Don't worry; unless you wear it with a black suit, you will not be mistaken for an undertaker, hit man, or a chauffeur. Since black is considered a "neutral" color, most blazers in colors from khaki to navy can be worn with a black tie. It's plain enough to be worn with jeans, yet the dark color makes a black tie ideal for formal events, paired with a killer suit.

Many a man believe the black neck tie to be to funereal in nature, but I disagree. It can show that you mean business, or it can allow for a simple clean line to compliment your ensemble. Width is important. I think that a slim tie is the way to go. Don't be confused. By slim, I don't mean skinny. Reservoir Dogs was a great movie, but we're talking about style here.

My black tie is, at it's widest point, 2.75 inches, which is minimalist in nature, but not trendy. Too wide a tie and you'll look like you earn a second income waiting tables. Too narrow and you'll look like our Reservoir Dogs friends, bumping off jewelry stores. If the width is equal to or less than that of a dollar bill, you're in good shape. If  it's less than 2.25 inches, well... time to cue up the George Baker Selection's "Little Green Bag". Just remember: with the already "stripped-down" look of the black tie, maintaining simplicity is key.

Another tip is to add a little bit of decor to your simple black tie by wearing a tie bar. The tasteful silver flash sets the stark black canvas into relief, and draws attention in a good way. Solid color shirts pair best with the black tie, so think white, blue, or, for the dandies in our midst, pink.

For some extra ornamentation, add a pocket square. This can match the shirt, or for the daring, be the source of pattern for the ensemble. If you stuck with the solid shirt, pattern is good for your square. If your shirt has a pattern, keep the pocket square plain. Otherwise, the shirt-and-pocket square-busy to tie-plain ratio is going to look way off balance.

One can never go wrong keeping all three elements plain and simple, as pictured to the left.

Thanks for tuning in, and until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Required Listening: Robert Cray, "Moan"

One of my greatest inspirations. Not necessarily Robert Cray himself, but the raw, unadulterated emotion of his song, "Moan". Sorrow, rage, regret, and hope all drip from from Cray's voice and Fender Strat. The notes he doesn't play are just as important as those that he does. When choosing an ensemble for your next workday, do so with this playing behind you. Try to get into the groove of the music. Dance a little if you have to. Be open to letting "Moan" penetrate your bones and influence your clothing choices.
Just... trust me.
Cheers.
-Paul

The Thrill of The Thrift

Well here it is. The 100th post of Paul Walters on Style. Maybe there are a few things I would have done differently if I was starting this blog today. Perhaps I would have posted more often. Perhaps I would have come up with a more creative name. I guess all the shoulda-coulda-woulda's hold about as much weight as a fart in the wind, as now there are only the considerations to be made about going forward.

I hope to be able to offer more material more often. I do try to avoid as much uninteresting filler as possible, wishing to focus on more substantial and appreciable information. If any of my readers have any ideas concerning things you'd like to read about or blog names that snag more attention spans let me know. That being said... today's topic!

With the current economic situation falling like a lead balloon (I really don't believe it to be "getting Better"), it's time for all of us to tighten our belts and embrace the philosophy of frugality. The penny-pinching mentality can be a tough one, because like any growing boy I'm always yearning for cool new toys. And like any boy-turned-man, the toys I want today sure are more expensive than they were when I was a child. It's like 1 Corinthians 13:11 says; "When I was a child, I spoke as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things." Sometimes I wish I still could get all warm and tingly inside by buying a Superman costume, but things are different now.

Now I'm thrilled by a new pair of Allen Edmonds, the fit of a tailored sport coat, or the way a Ralph Lauren Purple Label shirt feels against my skin. Sadly, these things don't come cheap, and in a recession, they usually just don't come... unless, one finds alternate methods of filling his materialistic needs. My mother has worked for Goodwill Industries for most of my life. She's an associate Vice President with the company, and needless to say, I've been in a lot of Goodwill stores. As a kid (restrained by my childish ways), it was easy to recoil at the thought of shopping at Goodwill. The stigma associated with being someone who shopped at Goodwill was supposed to be reserved for poor people, and not the upstanding upper-middle-class kid I was.

As an adult, however, struggling to become established in a time where everything is harder than it ever has been, I began to enjoy visits to the Goodwill store. Not only were the clothes inexpensive, but they were expendable. I began shopping for clothes that I could do back-breaking work in and not feel bad about throwing the clothes away when they became too heavily soiled. As time went on, I was able to afford (or at least make enough money to justify buying) nicer things like custom suits and shirts and expensive shoes. My Goodwill shopping, however, continued. I began looking for vintage pieces and rare finds. As the economy has been tanking, I have found some sweet deals.

The items featured here today are from only one visit to Goodwill, and here they are:

-Ralph Lauren Purple Label dress shirt. Approximate retail price $475 - $595 (shown at top with coat and tie, and at right)

-Armani Jeans sport shirt by Giorgio Armani. Approximate retail price $155

-Saks 5th Avenue Broadcloth buttondown. Approximate retail price $135.

Again, these items came from only one trip. I regularly find many garments from Brooks Brothers and Polo Ralph Lauren. Tommy Hilfiger items abound. Lacoste polos are not uncommon either. Regarding thrift store shopping, let me offer the following tips:

First of all, buy in your size. Don't buy a great shirt or pair of pants because of the brand or quality unless it fits you perfectly. An ill-fitting garment looks cheap, regardless of the quality. I have a couple of sport coats I've thrifted, and I always try them on and mentally add up how much tailoring will cost me. Depending on how much work needs to be done, certain purchases aren't worth it. A good rule of thumb with jackets is to get something that fits in the shoulders as closely as possible. Also pay attention to the length of the hem and how much fabric needs to be taken in. If a jacket needs to be taken in too much the pockets will inhibit the process at the seams.

Secondly, look it over well! I've gotten a great deal before on a perfect fitting shirt only to realize after getting home that there was a rather significant tear in the fabric that I had missed before. Do a thorough inspection. A third tip goes hand in hand: assume that stains will not come out. Don't confuse your drycleaner with a wizard. Stains that have been sitting for too long will not come out without risk of damage to the fabric, and we don't want that!

It's important to remember that we are in the worst economy since the Great Depression. Some say the current economy is even worse when one takes into account the effects of inflation. There is no pride to be lost by thrifting. If anything, consider your secret to be one that brings you enormous power. Christopher Lasch said, "Nothing succeeds like the appearance of success," and the appearance of success comes cheap, at only $3.79 per shirt.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Back to Life. Thanks for Your Patience (A Letter From the Editor).

My dear readers, I have been absent from the web for too long. I offer my most sincere apologies and promise that I am back to stay. I thank those of you who follow this blog and I hope that you have not lost faith.
I blame my lapse of posting on several factors, including both a full-time day job and a second job at nights, playing music professionally at assorted venues, accompanied by the new "phases" that my two young children are putting into practice.
What can I say? Life can be a mutha. Obviously, my passions lie in the topics discussed here on this site and in the love of style that makes its dwelling in my bones. I appreciate your steadfastness.
My next post will be my 100th. The centennial will have to have been worth the wait. What better time to "turn 100" that right after my coming back to life. I will leave you with this video, and my promise that this farewell will be a brief one.
Until next time,
God Bless.
-Paul

Big Black Book for Spring

Spring is here, and for some of us that marks the anticipated release of another fantastic semi-annual style resource from Esquire magazine. The Big Black Book for Spring 2010 is finally here, and available on newstands everywhere. I was pleased to see that even some grocery stores are carrying The B.B.B this year, as last year I really only saw it at bookstores. I hope that means that demand has been high, as I don't want to see these fine volumes go extinct anytime soon.

Esquire, we hope you'll keep up the good work (and yes, although I've entered a contest that Esquire sponsors, this write-up is completely non-biased)!

Features include (but are not limited to) the fine art of wearing white, selecting good-looking and durable luggage, choosing the summer business suit, and spotlights on designers that are bringing bold new ideas to mainstay brands such L.L. Bean, Bass, and Gant. There is even a handy table that provides the carry-on weight and size limit for all the major airlines. Good info to have, if you ask me. As infrequently as I fly, I find myself surprised everytime I do at the new laws and restrictions that seem to pop up anew with each airport visit.

There is an article on the style-world's rekindled obsession with "trad" wear, a detailed focus on watches, and one of the coolest pictures of Keith Richards I've ever seen. Run out, and get yourself a copy of the current Black Book. It may even tide you over until the Fall issue comes out. The Big Black Book is available at newstands or through Esquire for $9.95.

Cheers,

-Paul

A Tight-Knit Community

Hello, all! I must apologize effusively for the unannounced hiatus. There has been a lot going on for me, though it's not worth rambling on about here. Today I wanted to mention an accessory that has been making a huge reemergence in recent years, and the fact that the current season is promoting this item as well leads me to believe that the presence of the silk knit tie is indefinite.

Though obviously available in many colors, I think the first color worth adding to one's wardrobe is the navy blue knit tie. Simple and versatile, this was the tie worn by Sean Connery's James Bond with a beautifully tailored suit, and the texture of the tie also makes it perfect for dressing up a much more casual ensemble (perhaps even one that includes a jet-pack). I like the knit tie in predominantly solid colors. The tactile texture of the tie needs to be balanced with a sparse pallet and too many colors in the tie are distracting.

One of the nice elements of the knit tie is that any season can make the tie look at home. In colder months, the added bulk of the tie implies warmth, but in warmer seasons, the lightness of the silk and looseness of the weave looks comfortable and cool. Wool ties, for example, really work only in the fall and winter months.

One thing that I like to do with textures, and the knit tie is a perfect example, is to pair a visual texture wih a tactile texture for a nice balance. In the pictured example (photo 1), the tactile texture of the knit tie is paired with the visual texture of the shirt's Glen Plaid weave. This shows contrast and at the same time, blends the knit's bulk into the shirt's supporting backdrop.

If the knit tie is not for you, I understand. The squared-off bottom and sock-like appearance are not attractive to some. I myself used to find knit ties tacky looking, partially because when I was younger they seemed so dated to me. Now, however, due to their resurgence, I consider my navy knit tie a staple in my wardrobe. It's one thing that defininitely has a place in my closet's tight-knit community.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul