The Buck Stops Here!

Yes, yes: I know. A cheesy title. But c'mon! It ought to be expected given the topic of today's post. As spring approaches I find myself getting excited about breaking out wardrobe items that haven't seen the sunlight in the past six months. I enjoy the opportunity to lighten up a bit and embrace the coming warmth of early spring. One way to do so is with the proper shoes. I suggest these; classic nubuck oxfords.

Nubuck is top-grain cattle rawhide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface. It is resistant to wear, and may be white or colored. I don't own a pair of white bucks. I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for a pair as they look pretty sharp, but to me, the white buck works best as a summer shoe. They seem most apt for the blazing heat of months like July and August.  The tan bucks, which I own (shown, available at Brooks Brothers), are a bit more versatile and look perfect from late winter to early fall.

They can be worn with almost anything, from a rugged workingman ensemble to a blazer or sport coat and  khakis. I don't know of any type of shoe that can so easily bridge the gap between blue collar and dressy. The reason, perhaps, is that nubuck is similar to suede, which I generally think of as being more delicate and refined. The difference is that suede is created from the inner side of a hide, whereas nubuck is created from the outer side of a hide, giving it more strength and thickness along with a fine grain. It is generally more expensive than suede, and must be coloured or dyed heavily to cover up the sanding and stamping process. Because of the strength of nubuck over suede, it can take one hell of a beating and wears like iron, but it preserves the aesthetic of a suede shoe.

The signature orange rubber sole of a pair of bucks flashes just enough color to draw the eyes of passersby, adding a little bit of "look at me" appeal to an otherwise conservative piece of footwear. What more can you ask for in a shoe? Versatility, durability, timeless style and classic good looks? I'd say you'll quickly run out of reasons not to go a grab yourself a pair. Mine are from Brooks Brothers, but J. Crew, L.L. Bean, Bass, Sperry Topsider and countless other makers offer a stylish nubuck oxford. Hope to see some on the streets this spring and summer!

Cheers,

Paul

(photo at left, from The Sartorialist)

Winter Staple: The Flannel Suit

'Tis the season to be jolly... and freakin' cold! The time of year is here where we're breaking out scarves, gloves, hats and topcoats to stave off the biting-cold temperatures. And good for us, lovers of style, that many of these items make great accessories. But what about the days when it's cold but not frigid; when there isn't any frost on your car windows in the morning but your breath still condenses in front of you? When gloves would be unnecessary and scarves cumbersome? At times like these one can stay warm, and remain comfortable throughout the day with the right choice of a suit.

The flannel suit (shown here with a lovely chalk-stripe pattern) is precisely the right thing to wear. Now, don't get me wrong... it works great with scarves and gloves and topcoats, but can stand alone as the perfect, uncomplicated cold weather barrier. The fabric alone shows that one knows how to dress for winter, and the character of the cloth's weight is both attractive and comforting.

Flannel suits work best in charcoals and grays. The color is complimentary to the texture of the material as well as the cool of the season in which we wear them. I think they work especially well with a crisp white shirt and pocket square (if wearing a pocket square). Often times a tonal gray tie that compliments the suit material is worn as well. A wool or rougher texture tie also shows that one knows how to dress for the colder weather, and emphasizes the texture of the suit (see photo 2, compliments of TheSartorialist).

The nice thing about charcoals and grays is that a wide array of shoes can be worn with them as well, from black to brown and from smooth calf to reverse calf (suede). Note also in TheSartorialist's photo the pairing of a suede chukka boot with the flannel suit. Again, because the texture of suede is complimentary to that of the flannel, this pairing works splendidly.

If a new cold weather suit is on the horizon for you, try one in flannel. It will wear like iron, last for years to come, and always be the perfect choice for colder seasons.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Suede Shoes trancend Season

Hello again! Today we'll be talking about suede shoes. These used to be referred to as "reverse-calf", which means pretty much what it sounds like: calf leather turned around backwards. Today we call it suede, which sounds oh so much nicer.

The break away from polished leather being the only acceptable measure of shoe decorum in the United States occurred in 1924 during the International Polo matches at Long Island's Meadowbrook Country Club, worn by the beloved rule-breaker, the Prince of Wales.

After much hesitation from retailers and style scouts, not to mention ridicule, fashion arbiters pushed the shoe and by 1932, no well-dressed Brit could finish off a wardrobe without a pair of suede brogues.

The versatility of a suede shoe reigns supreme, being perfectly suited for lighter-shade spring attire and the texture being perfectly complimentary to heavier worsted wool and flannel suits during the winter. Go out and grab yourself a pair!

Cheers,

Paul