More on Domenico Vacca

Okay... I can't leave Domenico Vacca's mention in a post about Will Ferrell. These videos pay homage to the work of the man himself. Keep in mind that the stitching shown in these videos is designed to be highly visible in order to show detail. It can be kept as bold or as inconspicuous as a client desires.

Stefano Ricci

Stefano Ricci has designed men’s clothing for over 30 years. His line, with suits costing up to $30,000, is considered the most luxurious and expensive in the world. Enjoy this video, and experience the paramount of Italian luxury clothing. Cheers!
-Paul

Luxury Overseas

A blog that I admire very much, http://welldressed.blogg.se/, posted this video. I'm sorry. I must post it as well. That way my family will know that when I die, I want my ashes scattered here. Oger, in Amsterdam, Holand. Enjoy the video, and check out Welldressed blog.

Gay Talese: Save the Tailors

Gay Talese, pioneer of journalism as we know it today, shares his affinity for tailored clothing. I have seen other bloggers post this video, but Gay's message here is very dear to me, as I do very much the same thing that he endorses in this video. I needed it on this site as well.

The emphasis in this video is not so much on bespoke clothing, but on stimulating the tailors' craft by using their wealth of skill and knowledge to personalize your existing wardrobe. The little details that Gay stresses in this video are what make tailors so important to the well-dressed man... especially to the man who wants his own personal style to shine through in his clothing.

In this video, Talese shares some of the personal touches he has had his tailors apply to his clothing, such as changing the color of the threads surrounding buttonholes on his jackets. I myself have had similar adjustments made to my own clothing prior to seeing this video, so I appreciate another man's love of the tailor's trade being made so mainstream.

It is true that tailors are a dying breed, which is saddening. "Alterationists" are a dime a dozen; the local dry cleaner can usually hem trousers or remove extra fabric from the seat of your pants. I prefer to have my work done by a tailor, one who could build me a custom suit or shirt if I asked him to. It is the tailor that transforms your garments not by hacking them up and sewing the seam, but by deconstructing the piece and lovingly recrafting it.

Save the tailors. Follow the Gay Talese "stimulus plan" to keep this wonderful species alive.

Until next time,
Cheers.
-Paul

Astor and Black Charlotte Show Room Grand Opening

My good friend David Watkins (pictured at Right) of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers is opening a show room inside Emerson Joseph men's grooming lounge, at their Uptown Charlotte location. The Address is 221 S. Tryon Street, and David is having a Grand Opening celebration this Wednesday evening, September 16. The event will run from 5:30 to 8:30 PM, and will allow you to see the quality of the product first hand and meet David, all while sampling fine libations from Jack Daniels Brands.

I have written a couple of posts concerning my experiences with David's work (one such suit I am pictured wearing at Left), but I'll recap for those of you who may have missed out.

Astor & Black provides custom made clothing tailored with the finest fabrics available at off the rack prices. Garments are completely hand tailored and all jackets are fully canvassed. Incredible attention is paid to every detail and finish. Clients choose from hundreds of suit fabrics from some of the finest mills in the world. All Astor & Black suits are tailored with standard features such as surgeon cuffs (functioning buttonholes), hand picked stitching and more. Every garment is tailored to your exact specifications and personal taste with unlimited styles and options.

All shirts are tailored with the finest cottons. Choose from hundreds of fabrics, thirty-one collar, fourteen cuff and eight pocket styles. Also, a choice of twenty-four monogram styles comes standard with every shirt order.

With Astor & Black, client convenience is of utmost importance--they can work out of your home, office or showroom. Your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed.

Package Pricing:

3 custom made super 120's cashmere/wool suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $2,200
3 custom made super 150's suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $3,300
3 custom made Scabal suits, 3 hand made custom shirts and 3 hand made silk ties - $4,400

Individual suits - $550 - $1350
Individual shirts - $95 - $110
Individual slacks - $150 - $450

Astor & Black also offers over-coats, cotton slacks, Mullholland Brothers leather and luggage, Babette Wasserman Cuff Links and Tie-Bars as well as Allen Edmond's and Loake Shoes.

If you have the opportunity, come to the grand opening and witness first hand how dropping off-the-rack dollars can land you in fully custom-made threads. I have been thoroughly pleased with my Astor & Black goods, and I know that you will too.
Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul
(pictured: l) Paul Walters; c) Dwayne Waite, www.dw4r.com; r) David Watkins)

There's Always a Silver (or Paisley) Lining

Hello again! This entry can be subtitled "Going Custom part Deux", as once again I will be singing the praises of a gem of a custom clothier, Astor & Black. My most recent suit from these guys met all of my expectations, and after establishing a relationship with my local representative, I felt open to being a little bit more creative (and might we say... daring) than I had when designing my last suit.

The beautiful Bemberg lining is my favorite part; in a custom suit, the details that I care about are all hidden.

A wild lining is hidden until you want it to be. This one, I fell in love with (see picture). One of the cool things about Astor & Black suits is that the lining is also used as the interior of the breast pocket, which when turned inside out, can serve as a pocket square. How cool is that?

In addition to a bitchin' lining, I was able to choose slanted pocket flaps, and had the shoulders cut in the neopolitan style, with a natural slope and slightly ruffled sleevehead. I also chose contrast stitching for the first buttonholes on my surgeon cuffs. Choice.

And the best part is... I've paid more for off-the-peg suits. This one is bespoke. Rock on! Visit astorandblack.com to setup a no-obligation consultation with your local representative, and check out some of their wares. The site has pics! This is not an advertisement, but rather an endorsement for a firm that pairs custom clothing and affordability, making exceptionally high quality available to any man. If your job requires you to buy suits at all, you can afford a suit by Astor & Black. This is a company that I believe in.

Until next time, Cheers!

Paul

Going Custom

Hi again!

Today is a post very important to me, because it affects so many men and women with the style bug. There is really nothing quite like the feel of custom-made clothing. It used to be that one had to spend incredible amounts of money to be able to enjoy the luxuries of clothing made to fit no one other than oneself. Those days are gone, thanks to the incredible value of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers.

Astor & Black makes suits, shirts, topcoats, sweaters, ties... the list goes on. They also carry top-quality American made shoes by Allen Edmonds and top-quality English shoes by Loake. Astor & Black is actually the only U.S. retailer who carries Loake, favored by actors such as Kevin Spacey and Paul Bettany, and baring the badge of unsurpassable honor for an English company: appointment by Her Majesty the Queen.

The suits are second to none. Any imaginable feature is included in the price of the suit: functional buttonholes on sleeves (surgeon cuffs), pick-stitching, Bemberg linings from conservative to outlandish, button-flies, slide tabs, bull-horn buttons, your choice of jacket vent style, suit cut... once again, the list goes on.

The suits are all fully canvassed, rather that fused or glued, meaning the fabric is draped over a canvass cut to the contours of ones' body that the suit fabric "floats" over, allowing the suit to form to the body. Many suits (even some made by Armani!) are constructed by gluing (or "fusing") the outer cloth to stiffer fabrics to give form. Over time, or when the suit gets wet, the fabrics can separate and the glue can bubble and ripple (at this point the fused suit is ruined).

Astor & Black's representatives come to your home or office for a complimentary fitting and deliver your suit to you upon completion. Satisfaction is 100% guaranteed. Fabric options include Scabal, Versace, Dormeuil, and many others. Here's the best part: the suit prices start at $500, which one would be lucky to pay for a decent off-the-rack suit.

You may consider this to be an endorsement of compromise, but I assure you; I am a very satisfied customer, and am not on the payroll. Check out the website: http://www.astorandblack.com/ to find a representative near you. There are package deals featured with unbeatable value. But I must worn you: once you go custom, you won't go back to the rack!

Pictured is a shot of my rep (David Watkins) and me, both wearing Astor & Black suits and shirts (click on the photo to enlarge for detail).

Until next time,

Cheers!

Paul