Tom Ford Makes Movies

This just in... Tom Ford, who shocked many purists when he was selected to dress James Bond in Quantum of Solace, is now again making waves on the silver screen... except this time, the movie is his own. A Single Man (based off of Christopher Isherwood's 1964 novel), starring Colin Firth and Julianne Moore comes out soon, and features Tom Ford's debut as a director and at penning a screenplay. Firth has already won a best actor award for his role in the film at the Venice Film Festival, and Oscar buzz abounds for both he and Julianne Moore.

Whether or not the clothes featured in the film will be designed by Ford (who was the former creative director of Gucci) I don't know yet, but the movie has been called visually dazzling, and a stunning and beautiful film debut by Tom Ford. The movie appears to be set in the late 50's or early 60's (1962 to be exact... the video provides a date). Costuming should rival Mad Men in the way of period wardrobing, surely giving Tom Ford a chance to compete with Brooks Brother's new Mad Men special edition suit. I'm looking forward to seeing it, as $10 for a movie ticket will probably be the only thing with Tom Ford's name on it that I'll ever be able to afford. Check it out in the video trailer.

Cheers,
Paul

Simple, but Ballsy

Hello again!
Sorry; it has been a few days since my last post. Life has been busy. What can I say? My nine-week-old daughter got some shots and has been depressingly puny for the better part of the week, and as our doctor protests mine and my wife's strong stance against unnecessary vaccinations, there are still a few that must be administered, even under our own admission. Anyhoo...

Today we will again discuss the pocket square. I am a big pocket square advocate and fan, and I have many brightly colored silk pocket squares that I love to wear to amp up an outfit. Lately however, possibly because of the Mad Men influence, I have been favoring the snow-white cotton or linen square, pressed in a crisp TV fold, gently peaking out from above my pocket. The James Bond fold, where 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch of square politely asserts its presence, breaking the monotony of an otherwise conservative (eh... maybe not so conservative) ensemble.

I have, however, started to wonder what is wrong with me, the proverbial semi-dandy, whose collection of vibrant pocket squares has begun to virtually gather dust. I decided something must be done, and a happy medium had to be reached. Enter the patterned cotton handkerchief. Simple in its medium of construction, not unlike the plain white handkerchief that has become a staple, but slightly ballsy, displaying a tasteful pattern on its empty canvas.

Photo 1 shows a couple of examples, designed by David Chu of Nautica notoriety, one with a plaid pattern and one with a tasteful stripe. Pairing one of these squares with one's outfit pays an homage to minimalism, while at the same time projecting flair and panache. In photo 2, the pocket square echoes colors in the shirt with the lighter blues, and also the darker navy in the crest on the rep tie, brilliantly tying the components together. The plaid pattern also flirts with the sport coat's windowpane.

This example is not a limitation. My good friend David Watkins of Astor & Black custom clothiers recently wore a pocket square cut from the same fabric of one of his custom shirts, in a white undercolor with brown micro-check, paired with a brown tie. Combinations obviously abound, and pairings can include jacket pattern, shirt, tie... you get the idea.

The nice thing about these squares? Cheap. A box of 3 can typically run you around $20 at sources such as Brooks Brothers or department stores. Or, check out the outlet stores. A box of 3 patterned squares at TJ Maxx, for example, may be priced as low as $5.99.
Give it a try, and until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Rethink the Navy Blazer

Classics are hard to faze out. There was a time when a navy blazer was considered a staple for any man's wardrobe; a versatile jacket that could be paired with dress trousers and a tie for a day at the office or a meal at the country club, and worn with jeans and a polo shirt for a more casual approach was just the ticket for bridging the gap between the wearer appearing "dressed up" and "dressed down" (you can dress down an article of clothing. One does not, however, wish to appear dressed down on the whole). When worn with the former, the formality of a navy blazer would fall between that of a suit and a patterned sport coat. When worn with the latter, accessories can formalize or dress the jacket down just about as much as one likes.

When choosing a navy blazer, fit is paramount. The difference between looking like a reject from the masonic lodge and looking like a suave style maven depends on the fit. Slim jacket sleeves, proper shoulder positioning, and a trim-fitting waist are all things that today's navy blazer requires. Buying one as close to one's size as possible and having a good tailor give it a once over is crucial. If one is lucky enough to have a blazer fit properly off the rack, more power to ya, but my slender frame and broad shoulders mean that I almost always have to have the material rolling at the back of the jacket neck corrected. A good tailor is essential to the well-dressed man.

Another consideration that absolutely must be mentioned: the buttons. The traditional blazer buttons are a gold or brass color, and today, this doesn't sit well with many men. Perhaps the gold looks dated, perhaps it looks like one is trying to fake affiliation with an esteemed institution, perhaps you don't have a yacht... in any case, buttons can easily be replaced, and can be found at numerous online sources and fabric shops. Thrift stores, such as Goodwill or Salvation Army, also have blazers that one can buy simply to rob of buttons. 5 bucks for a set of buttons is a deal, even if the jacket they were once attached to doesn't make the cut. For button options, consider silver or pewter, or even mother of pearl (gray mother of pearl looks especially nice). Avoid leather covered buttons, as they can conjure up some of the same dated conceptions of gold or brass.

Photos 1 & 2 depict a navy blazer with proper fit. The buttons on this particular jacket are gold, and will remain so until I find proper replacements. I'm still scouting, and am looking for the absolute perfect set. My heart needs to burn within me. Note the texture of this jacket. The wool used has a soft, even hand, and is not the rougher, courser fabric that you saw on your father's blazer. This is another consideration. To maintain class and distinction, a finer fabric makes the blazer look even more timeless.

Small details are important too. Patch pockets, as shown in photo 1, are "back in style" and are even making appearances on suit jackets from very high-end clothiers. Also, a more narrow lapel, shown in photo 2 (no more than 3 inches at it's widest point), allows for a more modern interpretation of the blazer, after re-emerging from the 1960's style archives (thank you, Mad Men for bringing back the narrow lapel). Too much less than 3 inches is approaching the realm of trendy, so be careful... it may be okay on a suit, but on a navy blazer a somewhat traditional appearance is a good thing.

I hope I've given you some things to consider. Go find a navy blazer and rock it (it works really well with gray flannel trousers now that it's cooler). I will now leave you with a brief synopsis of the inception of the navy blazer, courtesy of www.tomjames.com.

In 1837 the Commander of the frigate H.M.S. Blazer was told that England’s young queen, Victoria, would soon inspect his ship. He took one look at the unsightly condition of his crew’s dress and decreed that they would get new uniforms. He decided on a short jacket with brass Royal Navy buttons.
There is a disagreement as to the color of those first Blazers. In one account, the jackets were striped navy and white; another reports a solid navy serge. In any case, Victoria was so favorably impressed by their attire that she required all the Queen’s sailors to be in similar uniform.

...so there you go.

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Wear It On Your Chest

Hello again! Today we return after many posts, to the topic of the pocket square. I've touched on pocket squares before, but have never covered the basics of proper square selection and decorum. The pocket square was for years a forgotten accessory, and I'd still consider it to be one of the most underrated. The breast pocket in a jacket was designed to display one, and having an added dash of color on your chest can do wonders for your overall appearance.

Now, with the advent of the Mad Men era, style is returning to the days of old, and many men are rediscovering the pocket square. Some choose to go for a crisply folded white square (Mad Men style), which always works well for providing contrast to an ensemble, allowing one's collar, cuffs, and square to break the visual monotony of the jacket. When straying from white, however, many men execute the wear of the square poorly. Mistakes are easily made, and I'm hoping that my two cents can help some folks avoid the pitfalls of square wear.

First of all, if you ever end up buying a pocket square and tie that come as a set, do not wear the two together. I would recommend refraining from buying these sets all-together, because in most circumstances, the ties are poorly made. A square/tie set always screams bargain basement to me, and those who know clothing and see you wearing an obvious set will think the same thing. Choose a square that is complimentary to your tie, but different (photo 1). In the pictured example, the colors are the same, but it is obvious that the tie and square are cut from different cloths.

Another method involves choosing a square to compliment a pattern in a suit (photo 2). In this example, the blue and gold pinstripe in the suit are echoed in the pocket square. The green base color of the pocket square is in the family of both the blue and the gold. The tie is complimentary here as well, with blue and orange accent colors.




















Finally, the most daring approach involves pairing your pocket square with neither the tie or jacket, but with a color in the shirt (photo 3). In this case, one needs to look at the pocket square as a sort of second necktie, independent of the actual necktie. You follow? If you didn't have on the tie that you are wearing, would the colors of the pocket square serve in a necktie. In the pictured example, the actual tie compliments the cranberry colors in the jacket, and the pocket square compliments the undercheck of the shirt. Not everone will be comfortable with this type of pairing, but when you are able to put an outfit together in this manner it shows that you are looking at dressing as an artform, and not simply as a means of covering your rear end.

This post could go on and on; this is a simplified explanation of wearing the pocket square, but I am hoping that it's just enough to get you thinking and to jump-start the creativity of the man and his wardrobe. Try it out, take some risks, and be creative!

Until next time,
Cheers!
-Paul

Style Profile: An Interview with David Watkins of Astor & Black

Hello again! For today's post, I was fortunate enough to have the chance to interview my friend David Watkins of Astor & Black Custom Clothiers. David has made a couple of suits and shirts for me and does beautiful work. For detailed info on Astor & Black, click here: http://paulwaltersonstyle.blogspot.com/search/label/Astor%20and%20Black, but to sum it up, Astor & Black provides exceptionally high-quality suits and shirts for prices you'd expect to pay for off-the-rack clothing. The attention to detail is quite remarkable and David's attention to what his clients want is second to none.

Aside from doing what he does very well, David has a tremendous sense of style and I am always impressed with his wardrobe choices. It is always the highlight of my day when I have the opportunity to talk shop with David over a glass of scotch (or three). I was thrilled that today he agreed to share some of his thoughts on style with us on this site. Just imagine the scotch.

Paul: Before we get into the style discussion, could you provide a little summary of your professional background?
DW: I was a marketing and advertising executive for 10 years; my last stint was as a partner at a local advertising agency. I decided to follow my passion into clothing... and well... here I am today, slinging fabric.

Paul: From advertising to making custom clothing... What made you want to get into the haberdashery business?
DW: My passion for clothes and the process that goes into making them. There is nothing like it. Also, with this job comes freedom. I can meet clients virtually anywhere in the world - that to me is exciting.

Paul: How would you describe your personal style?
DW: Classic, with a focus on quirky details. I love a good 3 piece suit, but... like today I am wearing a blazer with a tie and jeans. I would sum my style up as "mine".

Paul: Who influences you, stylistically speaking?
DW: WOW. Toughie. I get inspiration from just about every angle of my life... from the hip-hop and brit-rock I constantly listen to; from the magazines and blogs I read, to the people I have met along the way. My grandfather was the most stylish person I have ever known, so a lot of what I do is pay homage back to him. He was always dressed to the nines; always sharp, even up to his last days. Very impressive - I am not there yet.

Paul: What would you consider to be the key components of an outfit?
DW: FIT. FABRIC. FINISH. Take a $5 suit and get it tailored and instantly you are in the game. FABRIC. Make sure it is not polyester. FINISH. Focus on the finishing details, add them to your old suits if you need to. Hand-picked stitching, functioning button holes, et cetera. Also very key: the details! Make sure they are right; the length of your tie, having the right amount of cuff showing, your zipper zipped up and so on. Small things matter when it comes to dressing well.

Paul: And regarding accessories, what are your essentials?
DW: Are socks accessories? I must have a great pair of socks. Today they are bright red. I really do not have a rule when it comes to socks except the whole navy on black and vice versa.

Paul: If you could wear only one designer's clothing and nothing else, who would it be? ...Aside from your own, of course.
DW: Hell if we are dreaming I would probably take a stroll down Savile Row and get kitted out... hop a flight to Milan and do the same... I would probably seek out great tailors rather than great designers. That doesn't really answer your question now does it? OK... I think the Tom Ford Fall/Winter line is impressive so I will pick him... he is from the US. Go team!

Paul: How do you feel about what Thom Browne has contributed to menswear?
DW: Thom Browne has men really thinking about the cut of their suit and for that he should be set for life. I never thought it would take such drastic measures to make guys realize that baggy is not hip, but he did it! Thank you Mr. Browne for the reset.

Paul: Yves Saint Laurent said that fashion is fleeting, and style is eternal. How do you feel about this, and how do you stay stylish rather than fashionable?
DW: Stylish to me equals classic. Trends come and go, but style lasts forever. Take a great-fitting suit, add your small touches here and there and don't f#ck it up. There is a reason why we watch Mad Men and think "how cool are they?" They took the suit and didn't f#ck it up. Roger Sterling's lapels are a little on the slim side, the pants have little or no break, et cetera; overall they are classic and with that comes style. That's probably the reason you always see Tom Ford in the same or nearly the same outfit. He doesn't want to f#ck it up.

Paul: Are there any trends in menswear today that you absolutely love or hate?

DW: I never really hate anything too much... to each his own, ya know? Some things I adore, like the tie bar; it's great to see that making it's way into society again. Some things I am not keen on are blue suede shoes... oh, also triple pleated pants... I don't care how big you are: not a good look. I guess the biggest thing for me that I hate is when people take runway shows literally. They take the exact same outfit they witnessed on stage and copy it. Designer shows are typically over the top and meant to inspire. So when I see guys wearing this stuff... they look out of place like they are trying too hard. I hate that.

Paul: What is your favorite piece in your wardrobe?

DW: A Tiffany [& Company] tie bar handed down to me by my Dad. It has his initials on it. Also, my vests. I usually order one with every suit I buy... another weapon in the arsenal. You still do not see many guys wearing them, which is amazing to me! I just received a new double breasted vest... ready to break that out this fall for sure.

Paul: Okay, last question... we'll do it Barbara Walters style. Fill in the blank for me: "David Watkins is _______."

DW: David Watkins is THANKFUL.
This was fun... Thanks, Paul!

Paul: Thank you, David.

For information on Astor & Black clothing or to book an appointment,

contact David.

Email him at davidwatkins@astorandblack.com or call him.

(mobile)704-737-4274

(office)704-376-1102

Cheers.

-Paul

Neglecteth Ye Not The Tie Bar

Tacky? Outdated? Pish posh. I have heard select old and young sartorial figures use these words when describing one of my favorite accessories. I have heard praise over ingenious alternatives that remain unseen when used but boast tremendous function. I am talking about the tie bar, and for those who say they are dated (they originated circa the 1920's), you must have missed the huge resurgence that has been gaining intensity since even before Mad Men rocked AMC!

A tie bar (also tie slide, tie clip, or tie clasp) is a neckwear accessory that clips a tie to the fold of a shirt, preventing it from swinging and ensuring the tie hangs straight, resulting in a neat, uniform appearance. There you go. It has a function. The tie bar also, unlike nifty little doo-hickies that promise an invisible tie-anchoring method, has style. Loads of it.

Now I'm not saying that magazines such as Esquire or GQ should be held as law when it comes to the way one should dress, but they offer great guidelines, and the tie bar has been a prominent accessory in many men's publications for the past few years, pictured, but not necessarily shoved down the readers' throats. The nifty little device adds a small, tasteful flash of ornamentation to your chest, and throws a little bit of personalization into what can easily become uniform.

Tie bars are usually made of metal and often have minor decorative patterns. They are often engravable (although a monogramed tie bar may be a little over-the-top. Try an expletive to see who's looking!) and are usually seen in silver or gold. I prefer silver, as I sold my gold watch years ago and would refrain from blending silver and gold metals in the same ensemble.

There are important rules that must be heeded in order to do the tie bar justice. First, it should be simple- not a gaudy, bedazzled piece of jewelry for your tie. Wearing even a classic plain silver piece gathers enough attention. Trust me.
Second, tie bars are meant for slimmer ties and should always be shorter than the width of the tie. Even one that is the same width will look too big and needlessly break-up the natural line that the tie creates on the body. I do like to wear a tie bar with a standard width tie occasionally, but I cock the bar down at a bit of an angle to lend a bit of quirky attitude to the look (see the picture at top left. Tie bar by Dunhill).

Finally, keep the purpose in mind. Wear a tie bar not as an unnecessary accessory, but as a furnishing with a purpose: It should gently affix your tie to your shirt to prevent the tie from flapping around; useful as we approach the breezier fall season. What I'm getting at here is this: placement is key. A tie bar should not sit 2 inches from the top of your collar nor should it sit atop your navel. Think of the base of your sternum as the zero risk point. Gravitating too far away from this point in either direction approaches ridiculosity. Too high suggests pomposity. Too low, stupidity. Both detract from the function of the tie bar.

Way too high makes you look like a tool. If you are wearing some ridiculous 5-button suit that you stole from an NBA baller and want your tie bar to peak out from above your buttons, you will look like a moron just trying to flash some bling. A jacket with that many buttons will keep a tie from flapping about on its own.
Way too low, on the other hand, completely disregards function and provides the illusion that it's a miracle you were able to dress yourself in the first place if you get my drift. I like mine about an inch above the zero risk point. I'll show it to you, but I know how it works.

Remember this: men’s accessories with a vintage aesthetic never really lose their luster. Success with something like tie bar experimentation is just like any other part of getting dressed: it completely depends on how you wear it. An ill-fitting baggy suit and an overly substantial tie will not only make a tie bar appear exceptionally dated, but the contrast of sleek and shlubby will make the tie bar look entirely out of place. In the end, the right accessory is only as good as the person who wears it. Rock it well.
Cheers!
-Paul
( tie bar pictures: Left: Burberry, Right: Tiffany & Co., Top of page: Dunhill)