Shirts: Fit and Finish, with Alexander Kabbaz

Alexander Kabbaz is a master custom shirtmaker. He is often quoted in Esquire magazine and is pretty much America's go-to guy for knowledge on the subject of shirtmaking. I thought that this video would be great to post, not just because I love the feel of a terrific custom made shirt, but because the points that Mr. Kabbaz mentions in this video are great guidelines to go by when buying shirts off-the-rack, regarding the fit and drape of the shirt. I also think it's pretty awesome to hear the passion of a man who's been plying his trade for thirty years.
Enjoy.

"Mimmo" Spano Sums it Up

Leave it to an Italian who digs American Style to be just about as cool as the other side of the pillow. Check out this video, featuring Domenico "Mimmo" Spano, Saks custom tailor. Listen to his thoughts on elegance, and on style versus fashion. Amen, brother. (video courtesy of men.style.com)

The Leather Weekend Bag

Hello again. Today we will discuss the accessory that is not always with you, but when it is, it lends all of its charm to your personal style: the leather weekend bag. When strolling through an airport or hailing a cab; when racing down an unfamiliar street dodging raindrops to find your hotel; when getting into your own car for a spontaneous roadtrip/getaway; or simply when going to the gym... you will always look better when accompanied by the right kind of utilitarian device for stowing your personal effects.

Hell... there have been times when I have used my leather weekender as a stand-in for a tired briefcase, simply because there is more allure to this type of bag. It makes me feel like I have places to go and things to do; like at any moment I could be hopping a flight to London or getting in my car and just driving until I can't stay awake any longer. It changes the outlook of one's day... especially knowing that space for a pair of jeans, a clean pair of socks, and a fresh white t-shirt are literally at one's fingertips.

The style of bag that I like the most is known as a carpenter bag or doctor's bag, usually wide bottomed with a wire-rimmed or ridgid open mouth that closes with a triangular profile (see picture). If we are going for nostalgic allure, this is the style to go with, in my opinion. The look is iconic and classic. Choose a supple, buttery leather, pliable and soft to the touch. This leather will look better the older it gets, the more it ages. Let the bag get a little beat up. Don't fear character marks that come from love and companionship. Skip the back-pack and let your weekend bag join you on that overnight Thanksgiving trip to Aunt Agnes's. And that fishing and camping trip that you take once a year... you know the one... the one where you make the annual concession to smoke a joint and drink expensive scotch with a couple of college buddies. Oh, and that short business trip that doesn't justify having to mortgage your kids in order to check luggage at the airport. Just carry on. Carry this bag. This is the one you need.

I don't know about you, but I let a bag like this serve as somewhat of a metaphor for how I want my life to be... prepared for anything, timeless, stylish... oh... and indispensible.
Until next time,
Cheers!

-Paul

Just Plain Wrong...

A man's style is not limited to his wardrobe. His cologne, for example, provides an identifiable scent that can be detected by others even when the man himself cannot be seen. His dog is another example; an English Bulldog does lend some of its stylistic heir to its owner, just as a poodle would do the same... in a different way. How about a man's ride? The wheels personify the man almost as much the man's clothing. We all get in to our cars at some point, right? We wash and wax them. We spend hours detailing the inside so we have our neat and tidy roving living quarters, don't we? Men fall in love with their cars. Some modify the hell out of them to squeeze out some more horsepower. Others sweeten the looks by adding leather interiors or chrome wheels. Others... make a huge friggin' mistake. And here we address our topic!

A couple of years ago Chrysler introduced the 300; a large, attractive sedan that gave luxury cars a run for their money. The cars gained popularity quickly, appearing in films such as David Cronenberg's A History of Violence and Michael Bay's "not-too-distant" futuristic thriller The Island. They were also recognized very quickly as a car that could be "hooked-up" by adding chrome, some double-deuce rims, and... by replacing the stock front grille with an aftermarket one. Many became available. Some with wide openings and some with tightly woven mesh. And then somebody decided that since the Chrysler 300 somewhat resembled the size and shape of a Bentley, that a fake Bentley grille should be constructed for the idiot poser with deep pockets. Why? Let me tell you guys... slapping a Bentley grill on a Chrysler is (wait for it...) Just Plain Wrong (note the crafty use of the title in there)!

How dumb do you think people are? YOU ARE NOT FOOLING ANYBODY WITH A BENTLEY GRILLE ON YOUR F#&KING CHRYSLER! You moron! Anyway... now I've gotten it out. Consider the ambiguously moronic example in the supplied photo. A Bentley grille is displayed, while underneath, a front licence plate clearly identifies the car as a Chrysler 300C. I don't understand... what look are you going for? That's like having both an Obama '08 bumper sticker and a Pro-Life bumper sticker on the same car. I don't get it. The style points of your car just came down exponentially. This car is smart enough looking on its own... stylish looking, even. And then you put this ridiculous grille on it? Why?

Don't get me wrong. I love the idea of putting an aftermarket grille on the 300 to personalize it a bit, but by saying it's something that it's not when it so obviously... well... is not? That's just a little tacky looking. Do you guys see my point? Do not do this. If you do, I guess I have just provided my opinion of you. This is an unforgivable and utterly stupid looking trend. Let's stop it now.

DISCLAIMER: I hope all my readers understand that I was addressing a rhetorical "you" in this post, as I am certain that none of you who own a Chrysler 300 have done this. Also, if you are an Obama supporter who is pro-life, I appologize if I have offended you, but would encourage you to avoid advertising both of these beliefs with bumper stickers on your car.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

The Pocket Peek

The casual nonchalance of sprezzatura rears its magnificent head again in this posting...

I have often seen this little style tidbit in pictures of well-dressed men in Europe and there is no reason we shouldn't do it stateside. The breast pocket of your jacket was designed to display a pocket square. Really. That's what it is there for. One would never think to carry their car keys in the jacket breast pocket. Nor your cell phone (although in the days of the bluetooth, we sometimes carry a phone in a shirt's breast pocket), nor your cigarettes... you get the idea. It's for a pocket square and pocket squares are becoming widely accepted and used again among stylish men of all age groups.

The thing is, your breast pocket also serves as a great home for your sunglasses when not in use, and no matter the time of day or night, the silver arrow of a pair of Persol sunglasses dancing atop your pocket square looks great (Click on image at Left for larger picture). I love this look for two reasons... first, it adds a little bit of flair to your ensemble; there is a new dynamic to your outfit that draws the eye of those around you. Second, this is a clever way of displaying your superb taste in eyewear while at the same time not looking like someone who is flaunting. Persols aren't cheap. That's a fact. But when displayed in this fashion you don't look like a jerk saying "Look what I have". You look like a guy who's been wearing his sportcoat

or suit jacket all day who has retired his sunglasses to his pocket. It's that simple.

Is style something that you can purchase? No. That's fashion. Stylish men look great in clothes from Kiton or clothes from Target, and can't buy the panache with which they dress. Does this style tip cost some bucks? Yes (if using the brand that I endorse). This look is not quite as effective with a pair of Foster Grant shades (although the right shades will still look good if the details are right). I think that because of their trademark looks, Persols really shine in the breast pocket peek, allowing a beautiful glint of light to project from the silver arrow when the angles are right. It should be understood that the pocket peek is not going to be missed if it's not there, so don't get caught up on it. If it is present, however, the peek will get noticed.

Until next time,

Cheers!

-Paul

Time-Lines

Hello again, and thank you to those of you who keep checking in on this page. I appreciate your support.

Today we'll being talking watches, but of a very specific type. Today we discuss the vintage digital watch. Now when I say "vintage digital", I'm not talking about a black plastic monstrosity with an integrated calculator. I'm talking about stark, minimalist lines. There are a great many brands that produced some interesting vintage styles. Our example piece today is by Seiko. This watch (pictured) pays homage to vintage designs, however this one is not really vintage itself. The Seiko cal. W524, or "Nooka" was produced as a limited run a mere decade ago, and the designer launched his own brand (yes... Nooka) when Seiko decided against producing more licensed products.

I like this watch a lot more than the current Nooka offerings. A quick Google search for the brand may clue you in as to why, but I am getting off topic. After all, my watch is simply an example to point you in the right direction.

The reason I plug the old-school vintage watch is because adding one to an otherwise dressy outfit throws just the right unexpected twist in to shake things up... it's an eye-catching piece that jars and sets the precision of the rest of the outfit into relief. The boxy, architectural lines provide sophistication, but the digital readout on the screen injects a very special playfulness into one's ensemble, and consequently, into one's demeanor. The informality issue can be avoided by paying attention to the following:

It is because of the suggested pairing with a suit or jacket and tie that metal is the desired medium for this watch. Stay away from plastic. Blending a chunky plastic G-Shock with a suit should stay reserved for U.S. presidents. It DOES... NOT... LOOK...COOL. After all, we're talking about a digital watch here. That in and of itself is informal enough.

If you like the watch pictured, they can still be found online by searching for the Seiko cal. W524, but eBay is rich with other vintage offerings that may grab you even more. Keep to the guidelines we discussed, and happy hunting.

Until Next Time,

Cheers!

-Paul

My Favorite Cut

As you who follow know, my love for Italian clothing and style precedes me. I wanted to post a picture I found of what I consider to be the most ideal suit cut in terms of flattery and style. This suit boasts a pleated or ruffled sleevehead (where the sleeve meets the body of the suit at the shoulder) and a collarbone high notch (or gorge) in the lapel (yes... the gorge is the name of the seam where the lapel meets the collar and not the "v" shape of visible shirt and tie across the chest where the lapels meet. That is simply called your "button stance." Many make this mistake).

The use of separating the tie blades so that they are almost side-by-side is very Milanese, and I love this look as well. From the cut of the suit, the presentation of the tie, and the grandiloquent collar of the shirt, what you are seeing here represents my idea of sartorial beauty and I hope that you'll appreciate this look. This suit is made by bespoke Italian suitmaker, Sciamat.

See also this video (click on the link below), on knoting your tie the Italian way. Keep the knot beefy, but lose the symmetry that the Windsor knot provides. Here is the result. Today's words are sparse, but we'll let the picture and the video be worth over 1,000.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pquOp-pxeE <----click me!

Cheers,
Paul